Rapha Festive 500, London Waterways - Day 7: River Cray and River Lee

Featured waterways: River Pool, River Ravensbourne, River Quaggy, River Cray, River Thames, Limehouse Basin, Regent's Canal, Hertford Union Canal, River Lee Navigation, River Lea

Distance ridden: 95km 

Cumulative distance: 481km

Distance left: 19km

Terrain: Mainly tarmac, with gravel at Regent's Canal and River Lea, plus single track trails at River Cray

Weather: Sunny, 2degC

Nutrition: Half a banana, trail mix, a chocolate bar, half a litre of water

Route on Strava:

This was the day I had been waiting for, as it had been billed in my mind as a bumper day. The weather forecast was set fair - well by winter standards at least. That meant the sun would shine, and that alone motivated me to go out riding. I just needed to wrap up warm since the forecast was for highs of 2 degrees above zero, with the mercury at barely 1degC for most of the day!

I would be going into a fair bit of hazy or unknown territory, with some brand new waterways on the menu - for example, Quaggy River. Even though it's just in nearby Lee, near Lewisham, I had never heard of it. So I was looking forward to seeing this new place.

There were other places I had been to before, but so long ago that I couldn't fully remember. The River Lee and Hackney Marshes were in that category. I had even done a cycling article on canals sin East London for the former Cycling Active magazine years ago, before the Olympics came to town. So I did a few rides there at the time. I remember doing the photo shoot one Sunday morning with Andy Jones the photographer. He'd parked up at Hackney Marshes where loads of folks were playing football, when a random passer-by, intrigued by what we were doing as we set up for the photoshoot stopped to chat to us. He smelt of dope and seemed a bit stoned! I was quite embarrassed in front of Yorkshireman Andy, who had travelled down from his home in Sheffield to do the shoot. I had hoped he see a cool, hip side of London. Some might say, in a way he did!

I was also looking forward to riding along the River Cray, this time at the part near the Thames. I had ridden that area about a year or so before, and remember it being pleasant marshland with single track. I would be approaching the area at a different angle from my previous visit given that I would riding up from Bexleyheath. So for that reason it felt like a new venue.

One area that was completely unknown to me was the River Ching and the River Roding, further into East London. However, it wasn't sure if I would get to ride there. I had 114km left to do, and there was a possibility I would cover that distance before I had the chance to go to those places. 

The prospect of completing the Festive 500 a day early was quite exciting. I did so at last year's Festive 500, which was handy given that New Year's Eve was a wash-out in London.

So I set off first thing in the morning - not too early to avoid the icy roads - and looked forward to what would be a fun-packed day.

The River Quaggy was just a small river that flowed through Manor park in Lee, near Lewisham. It didn't look much more than the Croydon Canal, in the park near my home. It was much longer than Croydon Canal though, and I was able to follow it along the back streets of Lee, as far as Blackheath. If I had continued with this river I would have ended up in Chislehurst, where it joins with Kyd Brook, probably the original name of the nearby neighbourhood of Kidbrooke.

My ride pressed on into the bowels of South-East London - Charlton, Eltham, Bexleyheath - places I normally zoom past along the A2 in the car without taking any notice. So today was an opportunity to see these places and the folks a bit closer up.

As the weather was quite pleasant, many people were out in the parks, and town centres too. I discovered the area was surprisingly green, with Eltham Park, Oxleas Woods and Danson Park, all very close to one another. The nearby town centres of Welling and Bexleyheath were just town centres like anywhere else. Well, at these town centres seemed to have more shops open and people shopping there than I had seen in other places in London during this lockdown period.  

Crayford marshes with Queen Elizabeth Dartford crossing in the distance

Eventually I reached the River Cray, which at this end looks totally unglamorous compared with where I had been the previous day at St Mary Cray. The whole area is industrial, with a couple of desolate dual carriageways to cross. I almost wondered if I totally gone the wrong way, as the only sign of life I saw were folks wearing hard hats and driving cranes. 

However, there was a small sign on a lamp post indicating National Cycle Network, and that was reassuring. Nearby, another sign pointed down a driveway into an industrial estate, apparently to reach the Thames Cycleway. I wasn't sure if I should blindly follow the sign, but the direction did correspond with what was on my Ordnance Survey map. Furthermore, there were additional signs instructing cyclists to stay on the pavement. That made sense, as I wasn't keen on the idea of riding down this narrow carriageway and coming face to face with a fork lift truck on a blind corner!  

At the end of the road, a narrow gap in the wall opened out onto marshland, and the sight of a guy with a camera and birdwatching binoculars told me I was in the right place. In fact, it was quite a pleasant place, and I was treated to a fun bit of single track that twisted and turned through this marshland in the shadow of the M25 Dartford Crossing. 

Canary Wharf complex seen at a different angle to when I normally head the away

Apparently, this confluence of the River Cray and the River Darenth is popular with birdwatchers, walkers and recreational cyclists, as a number of people were making the most of the bright sunny weather. Surprisingly, the ground was dry, in contrast to some of the rather muddy riversides that I had been to over the week. It seemed that I wasn't the only club rider enjoying the Crayford trail, as some cyclocross riders were doing on full-on training rides along this section. Maybe this is a local haunt for club cyclocross riders like we have at Addington Hills near where I live. 

Considering the back-end of nowhere atmosphere, with just the Dartford Creek Tidal Barrier, Queen Elizabeth Dartford Crossing Bridge in the distance as the main landmarks, and a waste management company nearby, this was quite a popular place!

Thames Path at the Thames Barrier

Eventually, the River Cray joined into the Thames at Erith and I was back on the old favourite, the Thames Path, which I followed for a long stretch all the way to Greenwich. Along the way, I got the chance to see the Canary Wharf complex and the Greenwich Peninsula from a whole manner of angles as I meandered along.

After a quick snack outside the Cutty Sark, I headed north via the foot tunnel (both lifts were working, which is always handy) to reach the East London canals.

By this time, it was after 2pm, and the prospect of getting to ride along the River Ching or the River Roding was becoming unrealistic. Sunset would be at 4pm, so it was questionable how far I would even be able to advance along the River Lee.

I hurried myself along the Regent's Canal, which was quite busy like it had been a couple of days previously, and then dropped down onto the Hertford Union Canal. Now that Canal was quite refreshing and peaceful. There were very few people on it. Since it runs along Victoria Park, people probably preferred to be in there than on the canal towpath. That was handy for me as I was able to pick up a bit of speed to reach the Lee Navigation. This area definitely brought back memories of the time I did the photoshoot for my Cycling Active article. It looked quite familiar, apart from the addition of the Olympic Stadium (now the The London Stadium, the home of West Ham United).

River Lee Navigation

The canalside looked arty, with lots of barges owned by hipster looking folks playing music. It had been a sunny day and folks had made the most of it, even having lunch parties on their boats that afternoon. As well as folks hanging out at the side of the canal there others gathered near different microbreweries enjoying a takeaway beer with a slice of gourmet pizza. 

Although it was still bright, I could sense that nightfall was not far away, and I realised the farthest I could go would be to the Friend's Bridge where I double-backed along the River Lea along Hackney Marshes.

Riding a themed Festive 500 makes for a great opportunity to discover and rediscover places. Nowhere was it more apparent than today, when I passed through Crayford marshes, and then later on in Hackney Marshes. This vast area, famous for its 82 football pitches is more than a Sunday league paradise, but it is also flush with nature reserves and woodlands. Sadly, I couldn't spend much time there, but I know I will definitely be back there to explore the area further in the near future. 

It was now dark, so I knew this was the time to make the homeward trek, through Bethnal Green, Broadway Market, down to Aldgate and then along the River Thames past a very colourful Tate Britain Gallery.

I had hoped to wrap up the whole Festive 500 today, but time ran out on me. Once night fell, the temperature dropped dramatically. Luckily I had and extra gilet and jacket to put on, but it wasn't pleasant being out in what was now 0 degC. 

Tate Modern being especially jazzed up in its latest exhibition

It had been a good day, and I thought it better to quit while I was head, so I crossed Vauxhall Bridge to return to Crystal Palace. I had done 95 km, so there were just 18km left to do for my final stage. I could taste the finish.

Related posts

Rapha Festive 500, London Waterways - Day 1

Rapha Festive 500, London Waterways - Day 2

Rapha Festive 500, London Waterways - Day 3

Rapha Festive 500, London Waterways - Day 4

Rapha Festive 500, London Waterways - Day 5

Rapha Festive 500, London Waterways - Day 6

Daily photo - 22: Thames path run

Docklands as seen from Greenwich Park

Today was the day I needed to do my long run. On the agenda was 18 miles to do. Marathon training can be quite dull, and sometimes you get days where you really don't feel like running so far. Don't get me wrong I enjoy running but occasionally I get days where I feel like doing something else - riding my bike, going for a swim, or just lounging around. Even if I do decide to run, it's only really a 5km spin that seems appealing.

On top of that, the weather was not looking great. The weather hadn't been looking too bad first thing in the morning, contrary to what the weather forecast said. After resolving to get ready to run the sky turned black and there was a heavy shower. Perhaps a good excuse to stay home?

I actually felt quite annoyed that the weather turned just as I was due to go out. At these moments I develop a defiant streak and I think, "I'm not going to let the weather stop me!" So I continued to prepare myself and gathered together lots of waterproofs and warm clothing.

As a way to motivate myself I decided that my run would be a trip into Central London. Yeah, yeah why don't I get the number 3 bus, or jump on a train at Norwood Junction? That's not so interesting. How about a trip that takes in various parts of London that I can see up close?

So my route was going to be to take the Waterlink Way, a waymarked route to Greenwich that follows the Ravensbourne River. From Greenwich I would then cross the River Thames via the foot tunnel and then run along the Thames Path all the way to Westminster. Hopefully I would arrive into Central London before the shops closed and I could go to Waterstones and reward myself with a book.

That was the plan - hopefully it would stay dry. As I stepped out of the house covered with waterproofs and with my hood up, also laden with extra clothes I felt very hesitant and wondered if I was doing a wise thing running into bad weather.

In fact, the rain became lighter and lighter. Furthermore, it was still quite warm and muggy and I ended up having to strip off. In fact, as well as running with a small backpack I was now running with a kit bag with my anorak, long-sleeved top, anorak, hat, food and phone.

I got various odd looks as I ran through Beckenham and Lewisham with all my kit. But I didn't care. I was glad to be out, and I was looking forward to going around London.

By the time I reached Greenwich the rain had stopped completely and at times the sun was even trying to come out. The view of Docklands from Greenwich Park was beautiful. Having the silver-coloured buildings juxtaposed against the different shades of green of the trees in the park.

The other side of the river was what I call "old London" - places like Shadwell and Wapping with cobbled streets and old houses of the former dock workers. Following the Thames Path also gives an appreciation of how twisty the River Thames is, and also how dominant the office complex of Canary Wharf is in that area.

Docklands as seen from Wapping

The path had been very quiet, practically devoid of people, but once I reached Tower Bridge the numbers swelled and at times it became difficult to run along the path as it was packed with tourists, particularly around the Globe Theatre, Tate Modern, and Royal Festival Hall.

Finally I arrived at Westminster Bridge where I climbed the stairs to reach street level and I made my way up through St James's Park to get to Waterstones.

Phew, I was there in the nick of time. It had been a fun run, though with more than 18 miles in my legs they were definitely feeling it. With just 10 minutes to spare I had to make a choice. Not being able to think completely straight I just picked up a book quickly - Acid House by Irvine Welsh. The running had put me on a high!

This was the route that I took, as recorded on Strava


Related posts
Another day another run - at South Norwood Lake

South London running route

Trail running in Cheshire, Yorkshire and Bellagio Skyrace too!

Reflections on Rapha Festive 500

It was only a couple of days ago when I finished riding the Festive 500, but now that Christmas is out of the way and we are back into the usual routine it seems a distant memory, but I wanted to list the things I learned, in case anyone want to tray this sort of thing.

A section of Bristol to Bath cycle path

Why did I do rail trails?
To get in 500km I could have just done various rides and club runs from my home along the usual routes like Surrey Hills, the Kent lanes and Pilgrims Way, and even out to Windsor. But I felt that given it was a specific challenge I decided to try something different and give it a theme that would motivate me.

Riding rail trails was a way of staying off-road and not worrying about being unsafe due to the climatic conditions or the traffic.


Why did I travel around the country?
As someone who writes about cycling I feel it is important to know about as many cycle routes and locations as possible. By doing a theme that took me to different parts of the country I would be killing two birds with one stone.

I had already planned to do cyclocross races outside of London (in the South-West and in the Peak District), plus I have family in Yorkshire, so it was a no-brainer to do rail trails in those areas.


How did I know which rail trails to ride?
Some of the rail trails were ones I had written about for cycling publications in the past, such as the Down's Link and the Crab and Winkle Way. Some were trails I was familiar with because I lived near them or used them when visiting family - for instance the Middlewood Way and the Hudson Way.

Then there were other rail trails that I was aware of from word of mouth, articles, or just looking at an Ordnance Survey map and they are quite obvious. That's how I found out about the Marriott Way and the Bure Valley rail trail. Checking out an area on an Ordnance Survey map is extremely useful as it gives information about local trails, some of which may be relatively unknown (like the Bubwith rail trail) but also cut-through routes and of course how hilly an area will be.

There were loads of others rail trails that I would have like to include, but logistics just couldn't allow it. For instance in the Peak District there were Tissington, High Peak, and Sett Valley Trails. Closer to home there were the Forest Way, and Worth Way. There are loads more around, so I will probably have to do another series on rail trails.


Did I have any contingencies in case of problems?
I did as much as possible to plan for the controllable things. For instance, I put mudguards on my gravel bike, knowing that the trails could be muddy.

They worked well most of the time, but the day I did the Longendale trial the conditions were very wet so there was nothing I could do about that. So then, it's just a case of having spare clothes and the means to wash down your bike.

Margate beach, before the fog arrived

I generally try to plan routes that are not too far from train lines so that I can resort to that if something goes wrong.

For Christmas Day and Boxing Day when there were no trains I aimed to do local rides so that I would not be so far from home if things went wrong, or so that a taxi ride would still be feasible if I really had to take one.

I did do an impromptu train ride on the Kent day when on the Viking Coastal Trail and got lost in the fog after Margate. There had also been a lot of talk of local train strikes and engineering works over the Christmas period so I kept a watchful eye on that. For instance, I knew that trains would be sketchy in the East Anglia area so I planned my day to Norwich being aware that trains would not be working.

And of course I always have tools - at least to do the repairs that I know how to do! Then the usual things like money and enough charge on my phone. I also had strong mountain biking lights as I knew it was highly likely that I would be riding at night.


How did I cope with doing it all alone?
I never really gave it any thought. I do loads of travelling and bike rides on my own, so this was no different. If I am not sure of something I don't have any qualms about asking passers-by for local information.


Did I get tired?
To be honest, it was more tiring than I had expected, and probably more time-consuming as well. Because the rail trails were in different parts of the country I needed to allow time to drive to the places, find somewhere to park, then set up the bike before I could get going.

On the first day I set off in good time in the morning, but most of the other days my rides started late because before I could leave the house I had to blog and do social media across the different platforms (Blogger, Instagram, Facebook, Strava, Twitter) about my previous day's ride. I wasn't very good at using some of the platforms - especially the Instagram Stories and Facebook Live - and I ended up taking longer than usual!

Even though I was getting up at 6am to do social media it still led to late starts because I also had to gather my things together, load the car and drive somewhere.

By the time I was starting the ride it was practically the afternoon, and by the time I'd done the ride and moved on to the next place I would just have time to eat, rest up and go to sleep - something which I did quite easily because I did get increasingly tired as the week went by.

On one day I did social media, drove a couple of hours, did a rail trail, raced cyclocross and drove to the next place - and somehow I fitted in some Christmas shopping. I think I might need a social media team to travel with me next time, as well as someone to do my chores!

I was most relaxed on the last day because I didn't have to drive to get to the start of the ride, and I knew that I wouldn't have to get up early the following day.


What else did I learn?
The need to have lots of clothes for when night falls. The weather was generally mild over Christmas week during the day, but at night the temperature would drop suddenly and dramatically. I was glad to have extra coats, hats and gloves.


Would I do it again?
Most probably yes, but not necessarily as part of a Festive 500, so that I can take my time. Having said that, the next time I do a Festive 500 it is likely to be based around a new alternative theme which could also end up being equally challenging!


Review of the Rail trails


My favourite rail trail
This was strictly not a rail trail, but I liked the River Avon trail from Bristol back to Pill because on that section I was in the Avon Gorge with Clifton Bridge right above me. That looked quite spectacular. As for pure rail trails I like the Monsal trail for the beautiful views of the Peak District, and the series of tunnels.

Monsal Trail just before one of the tunnels

Most remote lost and lonely: Market Weighton to Bubwith - you just don't see anyone around as you bump along rugged terrain past farm houses and stables for over 10 miles.


Best maintained: Bristol to Bath - it had beautifully smooth tarmac and was well signposted to various other trails and bridleways. Selby to York was also well maintained.


Most dramatic: Longendale - it goes the length of the Torside and Woodhead reservoirs, with the Peak District towering over you. There are also nice views of the Woodhead Pass in the distance.


Most family friendly: Monsal trail - there are seating areas, refreshment stops, and a good compact off-road surface; sections of the Downs Link, especially around West Grinstead and Partridge Green where there are places to eat, and play areas.

Start of the Crab and Winkle Way in Whitstable

Most logistically convenient: Middlewood Way - it is never far from the villages. Both ends of the trail are near train stations and there is a train station at the half-way point, at Middlewood.

There are places to sit, picnic areas and nearby shops and pubs in Bollington and Poynton which are along the way.

Most challenging to ride: Crab and Winkle trail - there is a tough gradient to get up whether you ride it from the Canterbury side or the Whitstable side;

The full length of the Down's Link could be a challenge as it is around 36 miles when starting from Shalford and going all the way to Shoreham-by-Sea. There is a brief section with a steep climb and a steep descent; Market Weighton to Bubwith is quite bumpy and may require reasonable off-road biking skills if you are not used to that terrain. A mountain bike may be a more comfortable option for a novice.


Hidden gem of the week: Waterlink Way - a traffic-free route through south London that is round the corner from where I live, but had never previously ridden it in all these years; Market Weighton to Bubwith rail trail - a good trail to practice for cyclocross practice if I lived up that way. It appears that hardly any cyclists ride it because no one seemed to be on it when I was there!

And I can't neglect to mention other key traffic-free cycleways I rode on, that aren't necessarily rail trails - Avon Cycleway, Regent's Canal, Viking Coastal Trail, and Transpennine Trail.


Related Posts
Festive 500: Rail trails in England - Day 8 (Last day)

Why I like the Festive 500

Wanna do the Rapha Festive 500?

Festive 500: Rail trails in England - Day 2

London

Stats
Kms ridden: 64
Running total: 132
Kms left: 368
Refreshments: 250ml water
Weather: dry, very cold (frosty start), weak sunshine 5 degC

Highlights: Waterlink Way; Regents Canal; Highgate Hill; Primrose Hill 


Ride on Strava
London Tour -Greenwich - Hackney - Islington - Highgate and Hampstead - Primrose Hill - Westminster - Battersea - Crystal Palace


Whenever I'm in London on Christmas day I always do a bike ride around the city. It's probably my favourite day to ride a bike.

I love travelling through this great city with hardly any traffic around, and seeing the sights and the architecture in their full glory, without needing to have too much added focus on the crazy traffic!

Also, the Christmas lights and many folks out walking with their families just adds a feelgood factor to the atmosphere.

For today, rail trails had to be put on hold as there are hardly any in London. There are disused underground stations, but that'll be for another day, and I think cycling underground might present some problems!

Regents Canal near Victoria Park

Having said that, I did find lots of traffic-free places to ride, notably on the Regents Canal towpath. It's a lovely thoroughfare where you see the different architecture and degrees of stylishness as you go along.

Industrial ride

I joined the towpath at Mile End, over in East London, and continued past Hackney and Victoria Park (the people's park). These areas were quite industrial-looking with urban graffiti, with some parts looked a little bit run-down. I have to say, I like these scenes though because there is character in these places and there are always interesting stories to find out about the history of these places - something else to do for another day.

Then as I got nearer to Islington the path became more stylish as I went past the backs of design studios, and hip cafes.

I did leave the towpath at Islington to head North to Highgate and Hampstead, but rejoined it later on at Regents Park, where this section of the towpath had a regal feel, particularly as it passed near some of the most affluent parts of London like Primrose Hill and St John's Wood.

I finally left the canal at Little Venice, which must make for one of the most alternative addresses to have, for the folks who live on the boats moored there.

Little Venice

For this London loop I had considered riding all the way up to Alexandra Palace, but given the time constraints I just went as far as Highgate. Once again my ride included another pretty arduous hill - Highgate Hill.

Living in Crystal Palace, I am no stranger to hills in London, and I always thought the that the steepest hills can be found in and around my neighbourhood.

In fact, Highgate can't be discounted as having the steepest hills in London. This hill went on for about a kilometre and was a real grind. This should not have been a surprise to me as this hill runs parallel to Swain's Lane, a road I have competed on in the past for the Urban Hill climb. So therein was the clue that this road wouldn't be flat!

Beautiful Belsize Park

Once the road levelled off I was able to "recover" by doing a stretch across Hampstead Heath. One of the great things about having the Cube Nuroad gravel bike is the freedom to get onto gravel trails at will, which is what I did on the heath.

Even at times I completely off-pisted it by riding across the sodden grass. The tyres aren't specifically adapted for riding on wet or really muddy trails, but the Nuroad still coped over those short stretches - as it had done along the River Avon trail yesterday.

After these capers I then made the homeward run via the sumptuous neighbourhoods of Belsize Park, Primrose Hill, and down through Chelsea to get home and enjoy some Christmas dinner.

One really interesting find for me during this ride was the Waterlink Way - a traffic-free, tarmacked cycle route very close to where I live, that goes through Sydenham, Catford, and Lewisham, all the way to Greenwich. It is a very pleasant ride that basically follows the River Ravensbourne.

I almost feel ashamed that I didn't know about this route earlier. It is a much more pleasant way to get to Lewisham than on the road route, and I would highly recommend it.

I guess that's the thing about a Christmas ride in London - it is the chance to discover new places and new routes that I generally feel too much in a rush to bother looking for during my busy schedule at other times of the year.

Rail trails resume tomorrow.

Related Posts
Why I like the Festive 500

Festive 500: Rail Trails in England - Day 1