Sunday, 10 April 2022

Regents Park, London - my favourite training ground

There are few well-known haunts for London-based cyclists with Richmond Park and Box Hill being among the top places. 

One other place that's up there for leisure cycling and training rides, particularly for club riders is Regents Park. I have known for a long time that people cycle around there, but I didn't realise quite just how much. I had always perceived it as a place where North London-based riders have to resort to when doing their chain gangs given that we cyclists down South have the Kent country lanes at our disposal.  

I  fact, cycling clubs based South of the River are now organising rides in this Royal Park based between Baker Street and Primrose Hill. Dulwich Paragon go there, and I have seen riders from Peckham Cycling Club too. Maybe folks who work in Central London find it easier to meet there after work rather than racing 10 miles down to Elmers End, Beckenham through the rush hour traffic to make the 7pm start. 

Working from home at my base in Crystal Palace, maybe I would find the Kent chain gang more practical than traipsing up to Central London. But in fact, no. I am happy to cycle to Regents Park and do some laps there. 

Dirty Wknd cycling group training laps at Regents Park [photo: Dirty Wknd]

The thing is, whether I turn up at Regents Park in the early morning or early evening there are always groups of riders doing laps. Various groups ride around the Outer Circle at different speeds. Some of the groups are official club runs such as the ones organised by Dulwich Paragon or Dirty Wknd (pictured). Though there are many informal groups.

So it's just a case of latching on to whichever group matches my pace, and I am straight away into a training mode.

I like how these groups just tend to form organically. There's no one specifically organising who goes into which group. It's just a case of a couple of folks riding around and then others catch on, and as the group proceeds along the roads they pick of more riders. When we come to a stop at the different traffic lights one group joins with another group and the mass gets a bit bigger - though not too big, as some people may leave the group to form their own slower or faster group. Others may call it a day and peel off at one of the many exits of Regents Park. 

Of course in all of this, and as with all group rides there is an etiquette to follow.  Folks aren't keen on half-wheeling another rider, changing direction without looking first, or braking suddenly. It's all about smooth riding. Also pointing to the riders behind any hazards such as cars pulling out, slower riders to over take, pot holes, pedestrians, or lights turning red are all things that make for a good ride. And yes, folks do observe the traffic lights. With Royal Parks police monitoring the park I don't think riders particularly want to pay an unexpected charge for their training ride!

One lap of the Outer Circle is just under three miles, and I usually do three or four and then go home. You might wonder why I bother given that the rider to and from Regents Park is about 24 miles for me - more than twice as much as the training ride itself! But I must say, it is worth it because for that time I am pushing myself in a group ride and in a controlled environment. Riding around Regents Park is quite well accepted by park users and the motorists, so there tends to be a harmonious relationship as well between road users - which is not always the case on country roads! 

The other thing for me too, is that after riding my laps of Regents Park I feel tired like I have had a proper work-out, but I also feel a real buzz on my ride home through London. I feel high, and I also feel blessed that I can do such a work-out in central London and then ride home via some of the most famous monuments and landmarks in the world.

As I get fitter I do plan to do more laps, and I will probably set off earlier now that the mornings are lighter. Even if I get there at 6am I am sure I will find riders circling Regents Park.

My Regents Park ride on Strava

Sunday, 20 March 2022

Quick spin by Lake Geneva on a hire bike

My hire bike for a spin around Lake Geneva

During my recent skiing trip to Chamonix I had been hoping to get in a little bit of two-wheeled action by hiring a fatbike and riding along the snowy trails. It is something that I had done on a previous occasion while at this famous ski resort in the shadow of Mont Blanc. On that day I had been hoping to get up to Argentiere, but due to time constraints I only made it as far as Les Praz, near Flégère. At the time I vowed to return the following year and get in a snowy bike 

However, when I returned in 2020, the clock beat me again so my schedule didn't allow me to get out on the bike. Needless to say last year was a none-starter because of the pandemic. 

So this year I was all set to do it. The only problem was that there was "the wrong kind of snow" (as the old British Rail saying goes) and in some cases no snow at all! 

That was the running theme at the different skiing areas I visited during my stay - at Chamonix, Courmayeur, and over in Saint-Gervais. 

Apparently there hadn't been a proper downfall of snow since late January. The mountains were looking decidedly devoid of any of the white stuff over large areas at the high altitudes. There was no possibility of getting the customary snaps of snow-covered conifers, while being winched up the mountain on the chair lifts. 

Meanwhile, at resort level the cross-country skiing, running and cycling trails were pretty slushy. So fatbiking would have to go slimline.

Determined to get in a cycling fix while I away, I decided that my best bet would be to cycle in Geneva. It was a pleasant way to kill time before picking up my flight back to London. After all, Lake Geneva is not such a grubby place to hang out!

After dropping off my suitcase at left luggage in Geneva (Cornavin) train station I hired a bike from the nearby bike cooperative, Genèveroule, and very soon was whizzing through the streets. After crossing the Mont Blanc Bridge (Pont du Mont Blanc), I was on the shores of the vast lake. Navigating was easy enough as there was a cycle path giving lovely views of the city hinterland. 

Given that the crescent-shaped Lake Geneva (also known as Lac Léman) stretches for 45 miles (73km) at its widest point, you could easily ride all day, even passing into France and back again. Sadly, I only had a couple of hours and I couldn't pass on the opportunity to stop and have my packed lunch there.

I definitely want to return there and do a circumnavigation of the whole lake. So that's another ride to add to my ever lengthening list - and I hope to tick that off as well as a Chamonix fatbike ride before long.

Wanna go a quick spin around Geneva?

Here's how I did it:

I took a bus from Chamonix bus station to Geneva bus station, which is in the centre of the city and about 5 minutes' walk from the train station.

I left my suitcase in a locker at the left luggage department, close to the station entrance (you can pay by card so no need for Swiss Francs in cash)

Exit the station via the back, near the bus stops and emerge onto Place de Montbrillant. Genèveroule is right opposite, next door to a café called La Petite Reine. 

They have various sorts of bikes, including road bikes and e-bikes. I opted for a city bike and paid 9€ for half-day. 

The lake was about a 5-minute bike ride from the place - slightly longer on the return as I was going uphill.

There are bike lanes on a number of streets - some are segregated, others aren't. The segregated lanes are generally those on popular busy thoroughfares. There are also sign-boards to get to well-known landmarks and areas of interest. 

Overall, I felt safe riding around Geneva; it was similar to riding around the central parts of London where you also find segregated cycle paths, traffic lights and signboards for cyclists. There is also a bikeshare scheme, though I didn't use that. I'll try it next time.

Once I returned my hire back, it as possible to get a train direct to the airport. (Tickets available from the ticket machine in the concourse.)

Related posts

Eastern suburbs of Paris by bike

Navigli of Milan and suburban ride

Gravel ride to Box Hill

Traffic-free South to Central London ride

Monday, 10 January 2022

52 Cycling Voices - 33: Pauline Ballet

Paris-based sports photographer Pauline Ballet is a regular on the professional racing circuit, be it standing at the side of the road, in a car, or on the back of the motorbike following the peloton.

One of only a handful of women who regularly photograph pro bike races, Pauline loves the excitement of capturing the drama of racing.

I first got to know Pauline last year when I interviewed her for the series on Cyclist website on Inspirational Women. I had seen a number of her pictures in the cycling press, so to actually meet her (albeit over Zoom) was great. Given her various commitments, it was no surprise that I had to wait a while before I could to speak her. When I finally first got to speak to her she was just back from the Strade Bianche race and was buzzing from it. Pauline told me about how she got into sports photography.

Pauline Ballet, aged 33

From: Lyon area, France

Lives: Paris

Occupation: Sports photographer

I guess I break the rule that you can’t be what you can’t see because I didn’t know any women who were photographers when I was a youngster. 

I am just a photographer, not a female photographer. I take photos according to my own inspiration. It’s not that I have a feminine eye on things in my role. I’ve just got the eye of a photographer, not specifically the perspective of a woman. And I don’t see any barrier when there are lots of men around me. 

I became interested in art when I lived in Istanbul between the age of 9 and 13 years old, and my parents would take me to the different museums and mosques. I wanted to be a photographer because I was really inspired by the old black and white analogue candid photos of Paris by taken by photographers like Robert Doisneau.

I found it really nostalgic, and a little melancholic and wanted to learn to take those types of analogue photos with an old fashioned camera. That’s what attracted me to photography, and I would go to the library and look through loads of photography books. That’s how I got more into it. 

When I told my friends and family that I would like to become a photographer they were encouraging and thought it was something good to do, though my mum was a bit worried about my future and thought I could do something more secure like being a speech therapist! At that point I hadn’t thought about specialising in sport, and as there are a number of types of photography which are predominantly females, especially in documentaries or portraits they didn’t really comment about my gender. But when I began to specialise in sport they began to say that I was “doing a man’s job”.  And that annoyed me, because for me sports photography is a job for everyone not just for men! In any case, those who were close to me were really encouraging.

When I finished studying at the National School of Photography in Arles, South of France, I did a photographic residency in Argentina for three and a half months, and had carte blanche to photograph whatever I wanted. So I decided to to night photography linked to Christian ceremonies. At that point I hadn’t thought about specialising in sport.

I returned to France and did a few small photography jobs, then joined Amaury Sports Organisation, working in the picture library. Then one day my boss asked me to help out with taking photos at the Flèche Wallonne Féminine, even though I knew absolutely nothing about sports photography.

I got lots of advice from other photographers, but I was still so nervous. There I was on the day, at the Mur de Huy. 

On the day, I just snapped riders without knowing who I was photographing! The thing is, I had gotten to know the names of the racers from my work in the picture library, but then when I saw them in their kit with helmet and sunglasses on it was difficult to know who was who!

There was a massive crowd of spectators who had been there for hours, drinking beer, shouting and waving flags. It was a crazy buzzing, festive atmosphere. I absolutely adored it, and got on with the other photographers. It was a fantastic experience, and that’s what gave me the desire to continue in sports photography.

I am now a freelance, working on different types of assignments with different clients. Recently I worked on Strade Bianche with Team Cofidis. It was different from anything I have seen. I was quite surprised at how hilly it was, and the roads twisted in every direction.

For this job, I was in the car with the assistant sports directors. The day before the race we had decided which sectors of Strade Bianche we would photograph, so it was a case of getting to them quickly, taking photos and moving on to the next spot. I also took “behind the scenes” non-sporting photos.

I also do Paris-Roubaix for ASO, using a motorbike. That makes it easier to get around the course quickly and take loads of different shots.

Paris-Roubaix is the only race where I genuinely feel apprehensive. I have to concentrate so much and be really focussed and make sure I arrive in one piece at the finish line!

In this race, motorbikes are not allowed in front of the peloton on the cobbled sections as it’s too dangerous. We can only ride on the cobbled sections if we are there well before the racers arrive, otherwise we ride behind the peloton.

In the Tour de France I do a lot of my work from the moving motorbike. Frankly, there are moments when I am so scared out of my wits when coming down the cols. Sometimes we are behind the rider as they descend, and you can see the speedometer of the motorbike showing 90-92kmh.

At those times I hold my cameras tightly, squeeze my buttocks together and try not to think about anything; otherwise if I think about the speed I might as well give up my job!

The picture I am really pleased I took was one of Annemiek Van Vleuten right at the moment she attacked at the World Road Race Championships in Yorkshire.

I was on the motorbike in front of her and it was so good to be the one to have been there right at the moment to take the photo.

I also really like the one on the homepage of my website too. It’s the Col de Turini during the 2019 Paris-Nice. I absolutely love mountainous landscapes.

For that, I walked 3km down the road to get my spot as I thought it would be a more interesting photo than one from the finish line. It wasn’t easy walking with all the equipment, and I had to wait a while, but it was worth it in the end.

My advice to women wanting to get into sports photography is to take photos in lots of environments, including cycling.

Go to races – even if you don’t have accreditation – and take loads of photos. Select your absolute best photos and edit them well.

Pitch them to different organisations, put them on different media and social media. Get feedback on your photos from friends and family.

This is not a job just for men, so don’t get intimidated by the fact that there are mainly men doing the work.

There’s a lot of solidarity among photographers. I remember once breaking a flash while photographing at Roland Garros, and a fellow photographer lent me his. Once all my equipment was stolen from me when I was due to work at a race and I didn’t have any equipment. I was going to leave, but two fellow photographers insisted that I stay, saying they would help me out and they lent me their spare equipment. 

So yes, we are all there to help each other. If I have something that another photographer needs, I lend it to him or her without any hesitation, and vice versa. It’s for that reason that it’s necessary to show respect within the group of photographers. Our work relies on the fact that everyone helps each other out and there’s a camaraderie, otherwise it would be a sad place to work. Being a photographer, you are individual as you are working for yourself or for a client, and so without this solidarity it would really be a shame. And it makes me feel good to know that there is this solidarity.

For example when you are at Paris-Roubaix or the Tour de France, and you arrive at the finish line after having rushed there, all in out of breath and stressed in order to be sure to get into position a photo. You’re tired, you’re trying to work out where to position yourself….then you finally sit down in your position on the finish line with about 30 other photographers around you [pre-pandemic numbers]. Then at that point a fellow photographer pats you on the back and says “It’ll be fine. Everything will work out well”. You look round and see that it's someone you know, and you are really glad to see them. This type of encouragement really makes a difference to the environment you work in, knowing that people have got your back.

Finally, I strongly recommend keeping fit as this is a very physical job, with all the equipment you have to carry around. I do yoga and have found it a lifesaver!

Photos: Pauline Ballet

Instagram: paulineballet

Twitter: PaulineBallet

Other Cycling Voices

Monday, 3 January 2022

Rapha Festive 500 resumé - a damp, grey vintage

This is the look of relief and satisfaction at finally completing the Rapha Festive 500 at the end of last year. It was a bit of a frustrating affair, with plans having to be amended and tinkered with along the way as weather conditions changed, and I also wanted to include other activities. 

Normally when I do the Rapha Festive I have a theme, and I focus 110% on bike riding. Last year the theme was around London Waterways. Previously I have done rail trails, parks and the spokes of a wheel.

This year, for once there was no theme. There had been a vague idea around "A Tale of Two Cities" - riding around London and then riding around Paris. But Emmanuel Macron decided to close the French borders to British people in attempt to protect the French from Covid - I'm not sure how well his cunning plan worked. In any case as the Covid Omicron variant had become extremely rampant all around Europe, I didn't feel keen to travel too far from home.

I decided I would do just "a tale of one city" - London. Also, I would not pass on the opportunity to do other activities or social activities during that week. It was going to be a case of being very organised about how I would fit in the 500k, or roughly 70km per day for eight days.

The main way to do it would be to allow flexibility on where I ride, which bike I use and potentially mixing in the commuting miles associated with when I do a non-cycling activiy. It would probably mean a less interesting Festive 500, but I was still sure I'd get in those all-important kilometres nevertheless.

My day 1 ride, on Christmas Eve was all about getting in a good slice of mileage. It's always good to get in a healthy number of kilometres on the first. Psychologically it puts you on a positive footing. My ride was to Box Hill - why not start with somewhere well-known and with a feelgood factor. Maybe I'd even doo two or three circuits of the famous ZigZag.

In fact during the ride I realised I had become a bit overambitious with my goal. My route to the Surrey Hills had involved going over a couple of hills South of Croydon and going over Farthing Down and Reigate first. But when I had only done about 20 miles I was already starting to look at my watch and I had that "Are we there yet?" feeling. My legs were also beginning to grumble and, while riding along the rolling road between Reigate and Dorking I wondered if I would even be able to do one ascension of the Zig Zag. I was already pooped. 

Mentally filing through my mental records of the bike training I had done, I realised that not only had I missed a good week of cycling, it had also been a good month since I'd ridden my bike anything longer than 25 miles! So here I was effectively reaching my limit. I was only able to ride up the Zig Zag once, and even that was more like a crawl up the 2km climb. By the time I got there cake shop was closed, and the place was deserted. So much for "the most popular hill in the South of England"! 

My ride back to South London was a sorry affair, where every little rise in the road hurt my legs and I really had to will myself along to keep turning the pedals. Instead of doing the planned 100km, I just about managed 65km. So I resigned myself to doing around that - each day and the odd 70 or 80km in order to get through the challenge.

Christmas Day was an equally challenging affair - made worse by the fact that I did the Park Run in Richmond Park that morning. During the 12-mile ride back home I stopped two or three times for a snack. My legs felt hollow.

I must say I was glad I didn't do the Tale of Two Cities Ride. One city was clearly more than enough for me.

Weatherwise, both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day had been pretty grey morose looking days, with a bit of drizzle thrown in. Boxing Day was pretty wet. I told myself I would just cycle around Hyde Park and Regents Park and go home. They seemed pretty doable rides and when the ride is just going into Central London I get a sense that it is quite doable - it's local, familiar. What could possibly go wrong. Things seemed to be going swimmingly, as I began to get used to the rain, when I felt a softening of the rear tyre indicating I had a puncture - damn!

Fortunately, it happened near the Serpentine Gallery, so I was able to find a mini shelter and change the inner tube. Unfortunately, my bike pump wasn't up to the job, and after straining every sinew in my body to pump up the tyres I think I still had only about 35PSI instead of the usual 100PSI that I run on. As it was Boxing Day there were no trains to get me home, so I did a slow, gentle ride home. I only managed 50km that day, but was determined to get in a big day for Day 4 as I was beginning to get my energy levels back - it's amazing what a bit of turkey can do for your legs, and your motivation.

Holy Moly, it was manic Monday and I only got as far as Vauxhall when pssst I got that sinking feeling. A puncture again! This time I wasn't going to take up time stopping at the side ofcth road to repair it, but instead got on a train back to Crystal Palace. Then to salvage the day, and before the rain turned heavy I got out my cyclocross bike and dìd a few laps of Cator Park, followed by a few laps of Dulwich Park. It was only 25 miles recorded, and a frustating few miles at that, but that's all part of the fun of the Festive 500.

From Tuesday onwards I resolved to use my cyclocross bike, given that the weather had made the roads grubby with débris and therefore prone to causing punctures when on a road bike. I felt a bit self-consciouson the bike as it was a swanky by my standards - A lovely pimped up Specialized Crux. On top of that, my race number for the London Cyclocross League needed to stay on my bike to the end of the season. So aside from the unease that I was potentially flattening the surface of the nobbly tyres, I also began to feel a sense of 'imposter syndrome'. I don't usually suffer from this, but those feelings were definitely real given that the bike was beyond my pootle pace! But I was ready to withstand those symptoms if it meant I could get through the challenge.

On one day I used my commuting cyclocross bike to clock up about 30 miles as I cycled to Sadlers Wells theatre to see The Nutcracker. That was the best day of the Festive 500 - not just because it's an entertaining way to spend the day over the Christmas period, but also because the sun actually shone.

If Wednesday was the most pleasant day, Thursday was the longest. Rather than leave London, I made my trip about exploring South and North London, including a visit to the other transmitter at Alexandra Palace. On that day I actually managed 100km and felt fine afterwards, and the weather was on my side, even if the day was a bit grey. You have to take what you can get at this time of year. 

For my final day normal service resumed with drizzle and rain. Thankfully I only needed to do 25 miles, so that came in the form of a whizz around my local South London neighbourhood - nothing special. With that, there were no photos to show. So the above picture is the only one that was worth taking - just the one to tick the box and give a nod to Rapha, the sponsors of the event. And I must say, the jacket was pretty warm and dry.

It was a relief to have done the 500 km. There was perhaps more to celebrate than just getting the distance. 2021, like 2020 was hit by the fall-out from coronavirus. So that had meant plans having twists and turns. This 500km had been a reflection of that. Therefore a willingness to adapt to the changing situation is a good skill to have and makes me feel reassured.

Here's hoping for a straightforward 2022.

Related posts

Why I like the Festive 500

Monday, 6 December 2021

Track Champions League wows London cycling fans and riders

Track Champions League at Lee Valley Velodrome (Photo:

It had been billed as a top engagement on the cycling calendar, and had been talked about since when it was announced in the Spring of this year, so finally when the Track Champions League came to London's Lee Valley Velodrome everyone was pretty excited.

The fast and furious adrenaline-filled nature of track cycling tends to be a crowd puller, as you see at the Olympics for instance. Velodrome tickets always sell out first before other cycling disciplines. But this Track Champions League brought things to another level. 

The races were done as a league based on six races, each to be contested every week for six weeks. between November and December and in velodromes across different parts of Europe, including the Lee Valley (Olympic) Velodrome in London and the National Velodrome on the outskirts of Paris.

The short format races saw the World's top-ranked racers contest sprint, keirin, elimination and points races in rapid succession - which in itself was a challenge for the competitors who normally have long breaks in between races during a track meet.

Added to that were flashing lights, pumping sound system and animated commentators. Unfortunately I wasn't able to attend, due to illness. But from what I saw on the TV it looked pretty impressive. It seemed reminiscent of the old "Revolutions" series that used to take place in the autumn in velodromes around the UK, but on steroids!

What I noticed were the rather zany looking skinsuits that the athletes were wearing, which were designed by Santini, the Italian-based family sports clothing company. In fact, I wrote an article for the Santini website about the very tight process the company had in place in order to design the kit and have them ready for every one of the 72 riders.

The organisers of the event, Discovery Sports Events talked through what they wanted to achieve with this event. The idea, being to engage a wider audience to track cycling by making the format of the races easy to understand, and displaying athletes' performance data like what you see when watching Formula 1 on TV. Interestingly, the Head of Discovery Events, François Ribeiro, comes from a background of motorsport and bring some of those effects from Formula 1 to cycle racing. Funnily enough he also added that the effects that are being used in cycling, which are deemed revolutionary, were being used in motorsport twenty years ago. So, another reason for cycling critics to call it an old fashioned sport then!

The events went well, and wowed the sell-out crowds. Unfortunately, as has been the case with most sports events Covid-19 caused significant changes to the programme, with Paris, Berlin and Tel Aviv being removed from the rota as their velodromes were used as Covid-19 vaccination centres. Londoners were treated to two days of racing at Lee Valley.

Katie Archibald (

In the sprinters' competition Harrie Lavreysen (Netherlands) won the men's race and Emma Hinze (Germany) won the women's race. For the endurance competition Britain's Katie Archibald was the winning woman while Gavin Hoover (USA) pipped the fancied Spain's Sebastian Mora to the post.  

When the race came to London I managed to get an interview with a couple of competitors, notably Ed Clancy, who was doing his last ever race as a professional, and Nicholas Paul, racing for Trinidad.

Ed Clancy:

"I honestly think track cycling has been crying out for something of this nature for a long time – I’m probably biased but, track cycling is a great thing. The racing is short, action packed and I feel like the Revolution races gave it a really good go, to try and bring a bit of entertainment to something I’ve been very passionate about. This is the same sort of thing, but with the backing of Eurosport and some big sponsors. I think it’s mint. The crowd are loving it. Everyone I’ve spoken to that’s seen it back home on TV have loved the format. I hope for the next generation, it’s going to be around for decades to come.

Ed Clancy (Photo:
"When you’re an athlete for the Great Britain Cycling Team and you have that potential to win Olympic Gold medals that would have been your first and foremost priority. Wouldn’t it have been great to do something like this in what is now their off-season. I think it’s a great way for the riders not just to have fun and publicise themselves, but to make a decent living doing it as well. There’s decent prize money at the sharp end. I feel like it’s a scenario where everyone is winning. Hopefully the sponsor Eurosport are getting everything they want out of it; I know the spectators are and I believe the riders are having a good time as well."

Nicholas Paul:

"This is almost the end of my 2021 season, so I’m going into a break after until maybe January, just like road days something like that, and then I will be starting my preparation again back in Switzerland for the Nations Cup coming up, in the prospect of qualifying for the World Championships at the end of the year, and also they have the Commonwealth Games. 

"The Track Champions League is a big big change for track cycling. We are not accustomed to getting all this coverage, so I think it’s a step in the right direction for track cycling to let people know that it’s on the rise and it’s an exciting sport. I think that’s a step in the right direction, and the Track Champions League is doing a great job of raising the profile of track cycling.

Nicholas Paul (Photo:
"For me, it’s always a pleasure to represent the red white and black to put my country out there. It’s a little island, so I think for me to be able to put it on the map and let people know that Trinidad & Tobago has great athletes and great talent, I think that’s always a great thing for me." 

Related posts

52 Cycling Voices: Monica and Paola Santini

Why I like cycling in the velodrome

Sunday, 21 November 2021

Cycle route: Eastern suburbs of Paris by bike (part 2)

Route Summary:

Vincennes - River Marne trail to Chessy (Disneyland Paris) - Dampart - Claye Souilly - Ourcq Canal towpath - Bassin de La Villette (Paris) - Vincennes

Distance: 78km   Climbing: 250m

Route on Strava

Route in detail:

(Continued from the previous post)

As my route would not be straying from the river I didn't venture that way, and in fact it was a treat to have woodland emerge before me, and this landscape was quite attractive. 

From here on, the route continued further into the countryside where there people doing associated activities like trail running, horse riding, and fishing. 

Lac de Vaires - Watersports venue for Paris 2024 Olympics

In fact, near Noisiel at Vaires sur Marne, was a large watersports area which I believe will be hosting rowing and canoeing events at the Paris Olympics, and there were a few rowing clubs practicing along this stretch of water, and also on the River Marne at Lagny.

By this time I had crossed the river again and cycled briefly through Lagny to get back on the riverside. A lot of people were out walking, or were in the cafés. There was nothing special about this suburb, but I guess if tourist en route to or coming from nearby Disneyland Paris wanted to sample a French town, why not stop at Lagny, which is what some people may have done. Or maybe they were hoping to spot Manchester United footballer Paul Pogba, who is from there.

What was noteworthy for me was how the river path up-to-now had been a mixture of tarmac and compacted gravel, but then became a twisty stretch of single-track with tree roots bumps, pot-holes. Maybe I had missed a sign to get me back onto the road, but here I was on a proper off-road trail like in Surrey. 

It should have been fun, especially as I was on a cyclocross bike, but the cumbersome pannier made it difficult to get between the trees at times and on a couple of occasions my tripod, which was on my back got caught in the branches and yanked me backwards!

My overriding (pun intended) worry was that I would see the bridge I'd been hoping to go over, above me and I would have no way of reaching it due to being a long way from the road leading to it. Furthermore, I didn't know if bikes were allowed on this trail and I was worried about the path just leading to a mass of undergrowth that it would be impossible to get through. 

Chessy-Dampmart footbridge set in a sculpture park and among cyclocross/MTB trails

My fears were soon assuaged when I crossed paths with a guy out walking his dog, and he bid me a friendly "Bonjour" like seeing a cyclist was an everyday thing. 

Shortly after, I noticed a guy riding up behind me on Canyon cyclocross bike. As I gave way to him he greeted me and zoomed along. Yay, a kindred spirit. Another guy rode along the trail on a cross bike. So it's fair to say this is cyclocross country. 

This area, known as Chessy, is also within spitting distance of Disneyland Paris. All I needed was to head onto the roads to my right, and four miles later I would reach Alice's Curious Labyrinth. Well, I had already been through one maze in the woods; I didn't need to go through another one. So I continued my planned route to cross the River Marne via the bridge which turned out to be a wooden footbridge, to Dampmart and eventually Claye-Souilly.

Eventually the path took me to the Jardin de Sculptures where the pedestrian bridge was located. As well as cyclocrossers, there were a number of mountain bikers too. 

It's worth making a mental note that this area of Marne la Vallée is a place to do off-road training.  After a short break for my lunchtime snack, I crossed the river to get onto the road to the Ourq Canal.

My route took me along some undulating roads to reach a village called Claye-Souilly. This was no longer the nearby suburb. In fact, Meaux, a stage town for the upcoming Women's Tour de France was just 10 miles from this point, and on these country roads Paris seemed a world away.

On my arrival at Claye-Souilly it was easy to find the Ourcq Canal. It was a case of look at the road from where lots of cyclists were emerging (just near the town hall), and that was the place to go.

It was good to be on the homeward trek, as it had seemed quite a long day. This area was not far from Charles de Gaulle Airport, and knowing how long it can take to get to Central Paris told me it would be a while before I reached my entry point into Paris, at La Villette. 

The straight towpath back to Paris, along the Ourcq Canal

My ride was straightforward, with the emphasis on straight! Ourcq is a very straight canal. There only seemed to be about three turns on the whole ride back. Granted, I was kept on my toes when  the signposted route took me onto the opposite side of the canal, and a section between Villeparisis and Aulnay sous Bois had a few steep rises and falls. But overall, it was just a case of following your nose for 15 miles along this straight, mainly tarmacked towpath that ran parallel with the RER B suburban line.

In the early part of the canal the area looked pretty as the route ran through parkland and woodland. However, after Aulnay sous Bois there was definitely a "banlieue" kind of ambience, with rough-looking flats and wasteland nearby with graffiti on the walls. There were lots of young lads on scooters, skateboards, or doing tricks on their bikes, as well as well as teenage girls hanging out with their mates on this late Saturday afternoon.

Yeah, it was Saturday - what was I doing still on my bike ride when I could have been hanging out with some young people?! Or more like enjoying a glass of wine with some middle-aged folks in Vincennes! 

Even though there was a route that would take me straight down from Bobigny, where I was to my suburban base, it only seemed right to complete the route properly by going right up to the Bassin de La Villette, and continuing through Paris to reach Vincennes. So, on I plodded.

Bassin de La Villette - A popular hangout with boules and beer

Once in the vibrant area of La Villette, I felt quite motivated. Apparently the cool thing to do these days is boules. It's not just the preserve of old "Marcel" blokes, but loads of groups of young people were doing it on the many pitches that had been set up, while having a beer. That's another thing to do next time I'm there. 

From La Villette I headed to the Stalingrad junction to pick up the segregated cycle path along the Grand Boulevard to reach Porte de Vincennes and back to base. 

When I entered my hotel the receptionist asked me if I'd enjoyed my little bike ride, to which I replied, it was super. If only she knew it was just 80km little! 

Nevertheless, it was a fun day out.

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Saturday, 20 November 2021

Cycle route: Eastern suburbs of Paris by bike (part 1)

Route Summary

Vincennes - River Marne trail to Chessy (Disneyland Paris) - Dampart - Claye-Souilly - Ourcq Canal towpath - Bassin de La Villette (Paris) - Vincennes

Distance: 78km   Climbing: 250m

Route on Strava

Route in detail

Whenever I go to Paris I take my bike. I either cycle all the way there including a ferry crossing in Dieppe. Or, of late I get the train all the way there. If you do the Dover-Calais crossing you can get a regional train from Calais Ville station or a much faster (and more expensive) TGV from Calais Frethun station to Paris Gare du Nord. 

Arriving in Paris from Calais by TGV

Being in Crystal Palace I prefer to go to East Croydon, get to Newhaven, take the ferry to Dieppe, and a regional train to Paris Gare Saint Lazare from there (with a change at Rouen).

Once in Paris I use my bike to get around the city. I also use ot for longish bike rides into the outer suburbs and towns. 

In the past, I have been West to places like Versailles and Rambouillet. I have also been South, to Fontainebleau. 

Although I tend to stay on the East side of Paris when I visit, I haven't tended to go much further than Vincennes. 

So on my recent visit there, in October, I cycled out to the Val de Marne and Seine et Marne departments (counties), which are named after the River Marne, the main river in the area, and is a tributary of the River Seine. I headed out towards Chessy, close to Disneyland Paris.

The thing about this ride is that it was largely traffic-free as it involved cycling along a river (the Marne), and then later on, a canal (the Ourq).

Bois de Vincennes

My ride began from Vincennes, where I was staying. I headed through the woods along a gravel path behind the Parc Floral, passed the lovely Lac des Minimes and left the woods to go through the suburb of Nogent sur Marne, and joined the traffic. 

There were a couple of segregated cycle lanes, but they weren't on all the roads - and not on the roads I needed to get to. But I didn't feel unsafe, particularly as the traffic was very slow-moving due to road works (plus ça change!). 

The noteworthy thing was how the road climbed steeply - something I hadn't been expecting - and then it dropped down really fast to reach another suburb, Le Perreux sur Marne, which was right on the river. The area looked pretty upmarket (or BCBG, as the French would say). Folks often talk a out "La banlieue" (the suburbs) with negative connotations, evoking images of high-rise council flats and neighbourhoods awash with deprivation, crime and the odd riot. I have certainly seen suburbs like that, but I have also seen many suburbs that definitely showcase how the other half live.

River Marne at Le Perreux

Le Perreux, with its beautiful houses bordered by picket fences overlooking the River and with Mercedes SUVs parked outside was clearly in the latter category.

Crossing the river via the footbridge to Bry sur Marne was a good opportunity to make the most of the sunshine on this beautiful autumn day and take some photos. 

Given how peaceful this suburb was, I could even get some clean photos with few people around to photobomb the images.

A few joggers and walkers passed by, but that was not a problem. One couple were curious and asked if I was making a film. Funnily enough ough they washed me good luck in getting descent photos ad it was "really busy on this bridge, with so many people"! They obviously don't get out to Pont Neuf or Pont des Arts in the big smoke of Paris much at all.

Footbridge to Bry sur Marne

Onwards I pressed, along the left bank of the river, to reach Noisy Le Grand.

 This ride felt like a tribute to the RER A suburban train line as all the place names were stops I'd seen on the RATP transport map of Paris. Indeed, the train line criss-crossed my route at various points. 

By this time, the neat houses were behind me, and I got a glimpse of the slightly rough and ready landscape of an area that was distinctly downmarket. 

(Continued in the next post)

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