Bella Italia by bike: Bergamo to Como

On the road again to Lecco

After my ride from Bergamo to Lecco yesterday, I was all set to do the longer ride up to Como via Madonna del Ghisallo. It was going to be a long day as the plan was to get to Como, go for a swim along the way, and then on my arrival at Como I would catch the train to Milan where I would return the bike to the hire shop.

Having done the Bergamo-Lecco section of the ride yesterday, I felt comfortable as I had an idea what the terrain would be like, and I knew it wouldn't be particularly onerous - at least the first section.

Riding through the suburbs of Bergamo I came across a new cycle path that I hadn't previously seen, and was curious to take it, hoping that this would take me towards the road to Lecco. It did go towards Lecco, but was along a main road.  

Initially the main road had a cycle path on it, which I had hoped would lead me all the way to Lecco - fat chance. Lecco was a good 25 miles away, so it was wishful thinking that the path would continue for that distance. In fact as I wondered to myself how long the path would last for, my question was answered when it came to an abrupt end on the city limits of Bergamo.

At this point I could have turned right to take the more scenic route through Valbrembo. However, I didn't want to lose time and this main road didn't seem to have much traffic on it. I had seen the roads of  Valbrembo the previous day, so was happy to check out this main road.

Where Valbrembo had narrow country roads up through woodland and past hilltop palazzos, the main road was gently undulating through less spectacular countryside, though still with the odd panoramic views of the Lombardy landscape neutralising the industrial or retail parks in the various settlements. 

Although it was Monday morning and on a main road, traffic was surprisingly light. This was early June though, and many Italians may have still been off work, having taken an extended holiday following the Republic Day public holiday.

Pedalling along the road in the sunshine, I felt relaxed and allowed my mind to wander as I ambled through this part of Italy that was off the tourist path, but was still very pretty. Every so often my reverie would be interrupted by a "Ciao" or "Salve", as an agile club cyclist breezed past me effortlessly full speed ahead. Given how lean they looked I am sure that one or two of these guys were professional riders. In his Bardiani-CSF kit he definitely looked like someone I might have seenn on TV.  

Soon I reached Caprino Bergamasco and got caught up in a traffic jam. After winding my way past the cars and vans I got to the front and found out what the hold-up was - a level crossing. Unsurprisingly right at the head of the queue were motorcyclists and cyclists. 

Given the queue it seemed like the barriers had already been down for several minutes. One train came past, and we all prepared ourselves for the barriers to raise. But nothing. "Ma dai!" (Come on!), the motorcyclist said as he began to lose patience. The cyclist explained that there was probably another train about to pass through. There then ensued a conversation between the cyclist and the motorbiker about how inefficient things are around there. "It's not right to make people wait for 15 minutes for the trains to come through. We have places to get to!"

Plus ça change, as they say!

Soon after the level crossing my route reached Cisano Bergamasco where a memorial wall caused me to stop and look at the numerous photographs with messages displayed of people who had died during the Covid pandemic. Some were just posters showing a photo of the person and the information about where their funeral would be taking place. Others were mini tributes and poems dedicated to loved ones. It was sad to see the range of ages of the various people. Some were just in their 20s or 30s. Let's not forget that Italy, and specifically Bergamo, for a time became the epicentre for coronavirus when the disease spread outside of China.

Apart from a mini climb up to Pontida, and a breezy descent to Cisano Bergamasco the road had been gently undulating or flat, and would stay like that until just outside Bellagio, which was fine by me. It was tempting to stop, but I knew I still had a long way ahead of me as I still had not yet reached Lecco, and after Bellagio the ride would become a slog up Ghisallo and an even longer grind in Sormano, before reaching Como.

The run into Lecco was really pleasant and tranquil, considering that there are quite a lot of busy main roads in the vicinity. A cycle path along the lake meant that there was no interaction with any motorised traffic and the route was just shared with other cyclists, walkers and joggers. 

Lecco as seen from the other side of the Y

Once in the centre of Lecco I then picked up the road to take me to the other side of the lake, meaning the inside of the upside down Y-shape of Lake Como so that I could head towards Bellagio. Immediately after crossing the lake my route took me straight into the village of Malgrate, with its delightful Lungomare from where you could admire the view of the sailing boats. Looking across the lake took me back to the recent past, yesterday -  in which I rode through Lecco and continued along a lakeside cycle path on the same side of the Y, to reach a tranquil beach near Pradello.  

From where I was standing, in Malgrate, it was hard to imagine that I was on the other side of this expanse of water less than 24 hours earlier. That's the beauty of visiting Lake Como. Well, enough of my reverie. It was time to push on. Next stop, Bellagio.

Onwards to the blessed Madonna

Shortly after leaving sunny Malgrate I was plunged into a long dark tunnel. That was by far my least favourite part of the ride. Suddenly finding yourself in a practically pitch black, sharing the road with all sorts of vehicles including trucks. There was a strip to the side of the road which made for a de facto cycle path, but the road surface was rough. For this reason I had made sure to carry a light with me, as well as a high-vis jacket. In my experience I have found them to be useful, even essential to feel safe when cycling around Italy. Some tunnels are thankfully only about 500m, but in this area I had two tunnels, each one almost one mile long. By the time I emerged from the second tunnel my heart was pounding as I heaved a big sigh of relief. At least there would be no more tunnels until close to Como. 

Stopover and handy place for a dip on the way to Bellagio

Arriving on a stretch of road where all the traffic from the tunnel had magically disappeared was the perfect antidote. My road to Bellagio was peaceful and generally flat as it wound around the mountainous inner triangular area of Lake Como. At this point along the provincial 583 road I was right next to the lake shore, and there were laybys and parking areas where it was possible to stop and walk onto the shore, or even take a swim. A number of motorcyclists had had this idea, and I must admit it was a very tempting proposition to do the same. But I had had in mind to treat myself to a swim and a drink at Faggeto Lario, a designated Lido area and bar within Lake Como. So I pressed on, just stopping to make use of the water fountains at certain points along the way, which was very useful given how hot the day was.

Just outside Belllagio, the road began to climb. This is a town, known as the jewel of Lake Como is a place I have been to on numerous occasions and I can say with authority, that it is beautiful and worth a visit. However, I was pushed for time and I knew that if I went there I would be lured into hanging out in the town for quite a while. So I just continued along my way and followed the sign for Erba and Magreglio, and immediately entered into climbing territory. 

Madonna del Ghisallo: 9.4km; ave gradient 6%; max gradient 14.7%; altitude: 758m

I was all set for around 10km of climbing to reach the chapel that honours cyclists, and the adjacent museum. The Madonna del Ghisallo climb is always full of cyclists. At any time of any day riders can be found cresting this climb, all at various speeds, though most going faster than I! As I get older I feel myself struggling more and more with the opening kilometres, which are not far off 10%. The first time I cycled up this climb I took it easy, finding just the opening section, then the last part a little tough. There is a mid-section through woodland which where the road levels off. However, on this day I still found it hard-going. There wasn't any section where I felt I could relax, apart from a part about 6km in when the road went downhill and it's easy to mistake this section for being the summit. What kept me going during the ride were the spectacular views of Lake Como and the mountains behind it. I never tire of this view. There is really nothing like it.

Lake Como seen from the Ghisallo climb

Once at the summit, a couple of guys who had passed me on the way gave me a clap a cheery "Bravo". Although there weren't loads of people there, with it being a Monday afternoon, I still ended up spending a long time having lunch, taking photos and chatting to other riders. There was an American guy on a mountain bike who had taken some time out from riding the trails to ride up the iconic climb. Coming from Colorado he was no stranger to spectacular landscapes or hills. With his sinewy legs he had ridden up the trails within the Lariano triangle and up some of the peaks, and was due to ride more. I have walked and done a trail running race in this area in the past, and I know that the Lariano triangle has some tough trails. But I guess a rider from Colorado he will have felt at home up there.

I also chatted to a couple of French guys who were bike packing from Bergamo to Milan that day, but would be continuing to their home in Lyon by bicycle. Finally, a woman admiring the view had ridden up from Erba - literally down the road from where we were. It was funny to see a local person admiring the view in the same way as we were, when it's something that she could see almost every day. But then again, I still marvel at the views from Box Hill, Surrey, or from the Puddledock side of Toys Hill, Kent, even though they are comparatively local to where I live.   

Between having my lunch, taking photos, chatting to other riders and paying a quick trip to the museum and gift shop and chatting to the shop assistant there, I ended up spending over an hour at the Ghisallo summit. So much for only wanting to do a quick stopover in order to gain time! Meeting those different people was worth it though.

Madonna del Ghisallo Chapel

Struggle up Sormano

After my extended lunchtime break came the lovely descent followed by a sharp right-hand turn up the switchbacks to reach Sormano village. I could tell I was not feeling so fit because the hairpins felt like hard work even though the last time I was there, probably in 2018, it didn't feel like that much of an effort.

Then came the decision point at the fork, I could take the left-hand road down into beautiful woodland and then be met by the terrible Muro di Sormano. Or I could continue on the same road on a circuitous route along a gentle five-mile drag, the Colma di Sormano, to reach the same point at the summit car park and restaurant. This was a no-brainer; the Colma for me. It was not necessarily an easy ride up to the Colma di Sormano, but it was a darn sight easier than the alternative. At least this was rideable. I did try the Muro once a few years ago, and after almost bursting my quads then relinquishing and walking up the one-mile climb I said "never again"!

Along the way, I was passed by a few local riders who said a friendly "Ciao" as they ambled up the road. One guy rode alongside me for about half a mile, chatting. I warned him that I was too tired to go any faster, but he said he didn't mind. "So why didn't you go up the Muro di Sormano?" I asked out of curiosity. "The Muro?" he said, like I had asked him a totally absurd question. "No one goes up there. It's crazy! You think you are taking a three-kilometre short cut but you end up spending half-an-hour to get up there. It's not worth it. I want to enjoy my ride." So I was glad to know I wasn't taking the wimp-out option. Eventually, he rode on saying he'd be waiting for me at the top. "Okay," I said, thinking that he had just said that to be polite.

Meanwhile, I pressed on at my own snail pace in the heat, feeling more comfortable about riding slowly and not slowing anyone down. I had forgotten how much of a climb the Colma is. It actually climbs noticeably. In fact, the Colma di Sormano is nearer to 10km, with a gradient of 7%, with sections at almost 9%. That makes it comparable to the Ghisallo climb in effort, and at an altitude of 1,116m, is significantly higher than the summit chapel in Magreglio.  

Eventually I reached the summit, from where a car park provided spectacular views over the Pian del Tivano and the various peaks of the so-called Triangolo Lariano, the terrain within the upside down Y-shaped Lake Como.

Colma di Sormano: 9.5km; ave gradient 6.7%; max gradient 13%; altitude 1116m

Surprisingly I found the cycling buddy who had passed me, in the car park. I can't believe he really had waited for me at the top. I imagine he'd probably had a three-course at the restaurant to kill time while waiting for me. 

"Gee, I'm knackered," I said to him. Thankfully it is downhill now," 

"Well, I guess you're not used to it if you are from London." 

He had a point. Mind you, I can't say I'm used to all the hills in London either! When I told him that I had started from Bergamo and was headed for Como he was very impressed. "Brava!" he said. Then we parted company as he was returning to his base back down in Sormano, while I pushed on in the opposite direction.

Breezing back down to Lake Como

The descent to Nesso was amazing, though a little scary, given the tight hairpins that appeared to be practically stacked on top of one another in parts. Thankfully, there were not many cars on the descent that would make me go uncomfortably slow on the narrow and twisty roads, and make overtaking difficult. Once again, the views were amazing, especially as Lake Como came back into view. 

Finally, I was back on the SP583 lakeside road back to Como. Time was marching on and it became a race against the clock, as I wanted to get the train straight from the Como Lago station down to Milan-Cadorna, which was just a short ride from the bike hire shop. Those trains were only one every half-hour, so I wanted to get one promptly in order to arrive in Milan before the shop closed.

Still, I wanted to enjoy my time in this beautiful part of the world, which I had not been able to visit for the last couple of years. So at Faggetto Lario I took the very steep road down to the lake shore to check out the lido and bar. Even if I only had a 10-minute dip, it would have been bliss. On my arrival, the place looked a bit of a disappointment. There was a Lido, there was a bar, and there were sun-loungers too, giving a beautiful close-up view of Lake Como and the mountains shrouding it's clear rippling water. But there was pop music - the kind I am not keen on - and folks that reminded me of Brits abroad. They weren't Brits though, they were Italian. At least all that cavorting behaviour on the beach is not restricted to folks from Blighty! Anyway, I was in a rush and I judged that it was not worth me changing into swimwear. So I just turned round and bust a gut riding back up the 15% gradient hairpins to pick up the main road, and enjoy a brisk lakeside ride back to Como.

Another thing that hadn't changed from back home was the traffic. Como, being a popular place attracts hordes of visitors including those travelling in by car, and the approach roads into the town centre always end up being chock-a-block. So from the tranquil start that I had had from Bergamo in the morning, I was faced with all the late afternoon chaos on the streets of Como. Using my London cyclist skills I managed to weave around the cars and reach Como Lago train station, just in time to board the 1646 train to Milan-Cadorna station. It's a pity there had been no time to stroll around Como, or get a gelato, but no worries. I've done that in Como many times before, and there will be many more times to do so, I'm sure.

Darsena Waterfront, Milan

Once I dropped off the bicycle, I enjoyed a nostalgic stroll around Central Milan, and a gelato plus anti-pasti on the Darsena Waterfront. With 108km and 1800m of climbing on the clock, I think these treats were well-deserved. 

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Bella Italia by bike: Bergamo to Lecco

Many years ago I lived in Milan, and would regularly catch the train out of town to ride in the more scenic areas outside of this industrial metropole in Italy. One of my favourite areas was Como. The train  would take me right up to the shores of Lake Como. Then from there I could ride up the steep road to Civiglio and Brunate, or go further out to Bellagio and then to Magreglio, via the famous Madonna del Ghisallo climb. The challenging 10km uphill roads are rewarded by beautiful views over Lake Como and the Italian Alps in the distance, as well as a warm welcome from fellow cyclists at the cycling museum and the chapel.

It's been a while since I was last in this area, so as part of my return to travelling following the extended coronavirus restrictions I went on a long weekend to Bergamo and hired a road bike to do a few rides. Partly motivated by nostalgia, and partly by a wish to see if I'd still got it even in my advancing age, I did an extended ride from Bergamo to Como via the Madonna del Ghisallo climb.

The first part of my challenge involved doing a "test ride" the day before the big ride, from Bergamo to Lecco. My ride started from the centre of Bergamo, where I cycled through the historic part of the city, though not up through the Citta Alta (Upper Town) and along cycle paths and quiet residential streets to pick up the road towards Lecco. 

Monte Bastia and Val Brembo

Rather than take the main SS342 road I chose the inland route through a few hills. In that nearby area was the area of Monte Bastia with its woodland trails and hilltop churches, monasteries and castles. I wasn't about to do any hiking, but if I had decided to do so, it would have made for a pleasant, albeit fat-burning afternoon. On this Sunday afternoon there were a number of leisure cyclists and club riders riding up and down the climbs in this area known as Valbrembo (named after the local river, the Brembo) and it seemed that the popular climb to do was the climb up to the Madonna del Bosco church. There was no cycling museum at the top of this climb, but there were still some spectacular views of the nearby mountain range.

After a fast descent to the river, and then a climb through Brembate to reach the main road near Pontida. This road was still very scenic, and was quite relaxing to be on given the lack of traffic. I assume a lot of locals were still enjoying an extended Sunday pranzo.  

After Cisano Bergamasco my route took me onto a minor road to Calolziocorte, and once again I was treated to more nice views. To my right were the mountains that separated me from Bergamo, such as the Val Imagna and the Val Brembilla, and the rocky outcrops at the side of the road were the only parts of these mountains that I got to see. 

To my left I managed to get glimpses of lakes in the distance. Lecco sits on the eastern arm of Lake Como, which is fed by the river Adda. Along its course are other lakes that never get talked about, but are equally beautiful and worth stopping at - Lago di Olginate and Lago di Garlate. The latter was the one I experienced when I dropped down from the road to take a cycle path that went right along the water. There are a few campsites along this section and areas to just pitch up and have a picnic. 

Ciclopista Lecco-Abbadia

As I had my swimming kit in my rucksack, I was keen to find a good place to have a dip. To be fair, this was a reasonable area to stop, especially as there were lots of folks also messing about on the water - swimming or paddleboarding. However, I was keen to get further into Lecco and find a place with a bit more wow factor. Maybe I was being greedy - after all, I was already on Lake Como - what else did I want?? 

In any case, I continued along the path and later reached central Lecco where I found myself mingling with countless daytrippers, picnickers, joggers, folks on motorcycles, and unsurprisingly, end-to-end traffic along the main drag. 

Fortunately for me, I was able to ride along what appeared to be a recently constructed segregated cycle path (known as the Ciclopista Abbadia-Lecco) that ran right along the lake. After following this for a couple of miles I reached Pradello beach and that's where I stopped.

Pradello beach

This is probably one of the best kept secrets along Lake Como, as the beach, set in from a bay and down some steps from the cycle path and road, wasn't crowded despite the hot day. The water was as clear as in a swimming pool, and there was a bar nearby too. We were just surrounded by towering rocks from the Lecco hinterland, and the vastness of the lake, which seemed like an ocean!

I locked my bike to a nearby tree and got changed to get in a swim in the fresh, cooling water, before lounging and reading my book. A one-hour stopover was enough for me, before I upped sticks to ride to Lecco train station and head back to Bergamo. I must say this was perfect timing, as the sky suddenly turned black and as the train pulled out of Lecco the heavens opened!

When I alighted from the train at Bergamo the rain was coming to a stop and within half-an-hour the sun had returned, and I was ready to go out and join the locals for a passeggiata around the historic Citta Alta with its 16th century defence walls and its various medieval churches and monuments.  

View of Bergamo from the Citta Alta

My ride had been just what I needed - something more spectacular than my usual rides back home, with a couple of hills, but nothing too strenuous. I was looking forward to doing this and going further the following day. 

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Trezzano sul Naviglio, near Abbiategrasso 

As it's Flashback Friday I am casting my mind back to a bike ride I did along the Naviglio Grande from Milan to Abbiategrasso while on a visit to Milan two years ago. That in itself was a nostalgia ride as it reminded me of the two years I spent there between 2012 and 2013. Riding along the Naviglio Grande was a mainstay ride for me in those days, as it was my local run. I was staying close to Corsa Genova, so it was very easy to get onto the fashionable Navigli, ride past the trendy canal-side cafés and continue along the canal path (Naviglio Grande) to Abbiategrasso. This picture is actually taken at Trezzano sul Naviglio, just before Abbiategrasso. It's only about a 45 minute ride from the grand Milan metropolis, but it is pretty quiet, and has a very laid back feel close to the fields of the Milan suburbs. Interestingly, this is the place where today's stage of the Giro d'Italia began. It wasn't planned that way. The professional riders should have started in Morbegno, in the Alps and then headed into Asti (of fizzy wine fame) in Piedmont. But in typical Giro d'Italia tradition, there was a rider protest. The riders had spent yesterday racing in the freezing conditions up the Stelvio Pass, so some decided they weren't prepared to do today's 258km-stage. Instead, the teams were bussed over 130km across Lombardy to a big car park not far from where this photo was taken, and the riders raced the remaining 124.5km from there. Rider protests in the Giro d'Italia are not uncommon. They usually complain about the long transfers between stages, being made to race in difficult climatic conditions, racing over a wet slippery 25% slope like Plan di Corones, or even on the 100th anniversary edition where they were to race around Central Milan, weaving around parked cars on narrow streets! So this protest didn't surprise me - though the director, Mauro Vegni has vowed to take action against the ring leaders. I think rider protests are an Italian bike race thing. I remember in a cyclosportive  we were meant to do a cyclosportive across the Dolomites but it was bucketing down, with snow at the summits. Although the event was reduced to a race up Passo Fedaia, riders still complained that conditions would be unsafe.  On another occasion, at the Giro di Sardegna cyclosportive there was a big deal made about us doing a time trial that involved a long downhill section. After a big open debate between riders and the organiser the stage was cancelled and we did a leisurely ride along the coast instead. It's just an Italian thing, I guess.

Coronavirus Lockdown!

So, after all this talk of coronavirus firstly hitting Asia, then coming over and ravaging Northern Italy the thing just got all the more real, now that it has arrived in the UK and has claimed the first few victims.

Breeze Yoga, like other leisure places, sadly had to close

After what appeared to be a smug insouciance by many, including the UK Prime Minister, we have been forced to face the harsh reality that Coronavirus disease, Covid-19 (offically known as SARS-CoV-2) is taking hold of the country. In short, we are in deep s***.

Folks thought that it might be the capricious behaviour of certain world leaders, or even Brexit that might cause a socioeconomic meltdown. But no, all it has taken to bring the country into disarray is a tiny monster. And it is tiny. This organism of just one thousandth the size of a pinhead is causing havoc to countries across the world.

I was saddened to hear about what was happening in Asia, when the disease intially struck China, South Korea and parts of Japan.

However, I must admit I felt a certain complacency about the situation knowing they had overcome the first SARS outbreak 17 years ago, and so they would have the means to overcome this not dissimilar situation. I also perceived it has a problem that could potentially affect people in the UK, but not to any life-changing extent.

But then when I heard about the number of people killed there, it became more of a talking point. While I was in Milan, and then skiing in Courmayeur and Chamonix at the start of February coronavirus was a prominent talking point on the Italian news programmes. At that time a couple of people with the disease had been identified in Rome. But in a way people weren't so alarmed because they were folks who had returned from China, and as they were in isolation everything seemed under control.

But then one Sunday evening in late February when I was looking at the figures showing the number of coronavirus cases around the world, I was shocked to see how many people in Milan and the Lombardy region had been affected.

Once the disease had come to Italy everyone instantly knew it would be a matter of time before the scourge would arrive on UK shores.

My friend Silvia, who lives in Milan, spoke to me from her flat where she was holed up due to the government-imposed isolation measures. The thing that struck me was when she said that she did not mind being stuck there if it would help protect people, notably her elderly parents, from succumbing to the disease.

You need this when you go out in Italy during Lockdown

It was then that I first heard about the horror of people who die being left with no loved ones around them. Such is the contagious nature of the disease that sufferers can't make contact with anyone other than the hospital physicians and nurses.

Apparently some seriously patients, on realising that their days were numbered would ask to see their daughter or their husband, only to be told this wasn't allowed. I couldn't think of anything more heartbreaking and ruthless.

The other measures in place in Italy seemed equally alarming. No one in Italy is allowed to go outdoors at all unless it is to see a doctor or pharmacist, or to go to the supermarket. Even then, only one member of the family is allowed to go out and do the shopping and you can only go once a week. Furthermore, you have to go to the nearest supermarket to your home.

No outdoor exercises are permitted including cycling, but dog-walking within 200m of your home is okay.

All this was underpinned by a special form, known as an "autocertificazione". The form has your name, address, date of birth, ID number, reason you're going out and address of the place you're going to. You take the form with you every time you go outdoors, and be ready to show it to the police if you are stopped. Failure to have the form, or a breach of the rules leads to a heavy fine and potentially a prison sentence.

Italy had suddenly become a police state.

And now, given that there are over 8,000 who have tested positive with 422 deaths, including 87 in the last 24 hours the government has decreed the same measures in the UK as in other major European countries - well almost the same. We are allowed to go out and do one form of exercise - cycling or running; there is no time or distance limit, though we just have to make sure we maintain a social distance of at least 2m from others. We can do the activity alone, or just with members of our own household, but we can't do group activities.

So there you have it. We are offially in lockdown.

My first inkling that things were going wrong for us was last Tuesday when the Prime Minister, Boris Johnson announced that schools would be closing at the end of the week, and then on Friday he suddenly announced that sports centres and bars should close with immediate effect.

At that point I rushed out to get in my final class at Breeze Yoga. When I parted company with the instructors and other regulars some were optimistically seeing it as a couple of months' pause to catch up on other things. But now, given the extent of the disease I suspect that I won't be seeing the guys from Breeze at the end of May. In fact, given that so many businesses are now in trouble as a result of the enforced closure I really hope Breeze Yoga stays afloat through this difficult period.

As for me, I am just going to hope that I can stay in employment as well as remaining healthy. We have a physical and mental health lifeline in the shape of being able to go out and be active, as well as cycling. So I intend to make the most of that opportunity. Here's hoping that the Covid-19 reaches its peak soon so that we can then return to some semblance of normality as sooner rather than later. (Though sadly, it could be later.)

My Tour of Lombardy: Como, Bellagio, Ghisallo, and ooh Sormano!

After a day riding in the flatlands of surburban Milan, I then tackled the the hills around Lake Como - specifically Madonna del Ghisallo and the Sormano climbs featured in the Giro di Lombardia. I could have plumped for one of many choices - Brunate, Intelvi, or nearby Switzerland to go up Morbio and around Mendrisio.

I was happy to go up the classic climbs as it had been five years since I last rode up these climbs. Also given that the last time I was up there was in my pre-Strava days I wanted to get this ride onto the app. Yes, I was shamelessly pandering to the saying, "if it's not on Strava it didn't happen!"

The drive up to Como was straightforward; parking was not. Como, especially on a sunny Saturday afternoon can get so rammed with locals and tourists that it's impossible to find any free parking in the street. On a previous occasion I'd had to drive around a lot, even though it was first thing on a Saturday morning. I eventually found a place to park for free - in Brunate, 500m above Como and after 3 miles of rather steep technical switchbacks and a close encounter with a runaway bus that was coming down from the village!

This time I wasn't going to go through all that palava, so I surrendered myself to pricey fees of multistorey car park on Viale Lecco.


The road to Bellagio

On cycling out of the car park, very quickly I was climbing as I took the road to Bellagio. It was a picturesque route that went along the side of the lake, with lovely views of Como behind me, with the dome of the cathedral dominating the skyline.

Not exactly Como, but nearby Bellagio!

This road rose up and down, twisting and turning while passing through small villages like Blevio and Torno. There are lots of places to stop and get a coffee or an ice cream, or even have a full sit-down meal by the lake if you really want.

The nearby village of Faggeto Lario even had a lido for anyone fancying a dip. One of these days I will do this route and stop off and have a slap up meal. But for today, I had to push on because I had a plan.

After around 20 miles I arrived on the edge of Bellagio where a right hand turn took me up the road to start the classic climb up to Magreglio where the Madonna del Ghisallo church is located. At this point I began to see even more cyclists than before on the road.


Smack my Switch back

The road up to Madonna del Ghisallo was roughly 10km, so not epic in length, but epic in landscape. In short, it's spectacular.

You do have to pedal hard though, and that's the snag - particularly if you've become lardy and sluggish like me!

Those initial 3 or 4 kilometres of steep bends were a shock to the system as the gradient kicked up suddenly. I was breathing heavily, and worried how I would get through it as this was only the start of the road. A few guys passed me and grunted words of encouragement as they ground their way uphill.

View of Bellagio from the Ghisallo climb

If I wasn't feeling great there was an old boy in a worse state than myself. He was breathing so hard I am sure they could hear him in Como.

I was worried he might have been exerting himself too much for his age, especially with the way he was weaving all over the road.

As I overtook him I said the customary "Ciao" while trying not to rub it in that I was having less difficulty than him on the climb. Soon the road levelled off and he as well as I found some respite from our efforts. At that point I looked behind and spotted Bellagio a long way down from where I had come. No wonder I had had to work so hard!

A couple of guys who had passed me earlier on the switchbacks had stopped at the side of the road to take photos. This was the last point that we would see Lake Como until the summit. Then we all tackled the winding road together - well together for 100m, after which I and the old boy were dropped.

It was a beautiful road that passed through woodland with its lovely autumn colours. It made me look forward to the next day when I was due to take part in a running race on trails through this area.

Almost at the summit of the Ghisallo climb

Soon, the road went downhill, passing a village with a pretty chapel and I stopped, erroneously thinking that I had overshot Madonna del Ghisallo.

But when I saw more riders breezing through, and the road going uphill again in the distance I realised I still had a few more kilometres to ride.

Once at the summit I heaved a sigh of relief, and felt satisfied that I had managed the climb, and I had even passed a couple of guys. Maybe I wasn't so unfit then.

The guys I passed reached the summit shortly after me, and we all congratulated each other and took photos. They were Italians from Turin, who had come to Como for the weekend, specially to ride in this area.

It was funny how they were asking me, a Londoner, about the route ahead. They were debating whether to return to Como via Erba, or take the infamous Sormano. When I told them they would be climbing the hard side of Sormano their decision was made. They would carry on straight down to Erba. My decision was made too. I would descend a little, but instead of going to Erba I would turn right and climb to Sormano to take on this Wall.

Meltdown on the Muro

After a look around the chapel with all its cycling memorabilia, and taking more photos of Lake Como I enjoyed the fast decent towards Erba, but half-way down turned sharp right to enjoy more uphill switchbacks to reach the village of Sormano. This climb was gentle, and a breeze compared with the effort to reach Magreglio.

Again, this was a popular Strava segment as lots of cyclists were on the road in both directions. I also saw some riders who I recognised from the Ghisallo climb when they passed me on the way up. If they were only just passing me now, that meant they must have taken an extended café stop at Ghisallo summit, given that they overtook me on the Sormano climb so fast.

Sormano village, where a beast awaits around the corner

On these types of twisty roads, like on any similar roads in scenic areas the world over, you get plenty of motorcyclists, and this road was no exception. There were loads of them on this sunny Saturday afternoon. Thankfully, they kept a healthy distance from me, so it wasn't bothersome.

Once I'd passed Sormano the landscape became more unkempt and desolate as it went through scrubland and then woodland.

Then I saw the sign for the Muro di Sormano, with its vital statistics laid bare on the ground for all to see. 1600m in length, average gradient 17%, maximum gradient 25%, and all the years this climb has been included in the Giro do Lombardia. Taking this narrow steep lane was not compulsory, as it was possible to stay on the main road and continue the longer and less steep way round. But hey, I didn't come all this way to miss it out. I had to at least attempt it.

It was clear that this was going to be tough, and not even the initial downhill at the start of the lane would lure me into a false sense of security.

As walkers in the woods saw me coming down the road they all commented in Italian saying words to the effect of "I hope you're ready for this, you will need very strong legs."

Don't be fooled by the downhill road. It goes to THE WALL

And they were absolutely right. This climb did not disappoint.

The initial section of road shot up just like a wall. Annoyingly, matters were not helped by a motorist who, in her wisdom tried to drive up this road, then on realising it would be too tough to drive, was trying to 3-point turn the car in the lane. Somehow, I managed to squeeze around her.

I heaved and pushed my way up, my heart pounding, quads burning as I honked out of the saddle; it had me gasping for breath. The gradient must have been a good 22%.

It then eased off - only slightly, but enough for me to be able to stay in the saddle and pedal at a snail-pace cadence.

I must have been moving at barely 2 miles an hour. The road continued along this painful slope, and I could see a bend in the road ahead, and hoped that around the corner things would ease off further. I needed some respite as I was pouring with sweat, and every small lump in the road was too much for me. I was right on the limit and thought I would either melt or combust or both!

Alas it wasn't meant to be, and the road continued at its relentless 17% gradient. After about 400m I put a stop to this purgatory on wheels by climbing off my bike and walking. I am just glad that my road cleats were grippy enough to be able to walk, as this road was not even easy to negotiate on foot.

I can't think of a harder climb than this in all the riding I've done in Italy. The hard side of Mortirolo is pretty tough, and I had a similar experience on that one, but that was only for a brief stretch, and to be honest I wasn't that fit. I've heard Zoncolan is difficult too, but I have yet to ride that one. After that, I would compare this climb with the steep climbs in England, like Hardknott Pass in the Lake District, possibly Winnats Pass in the Peak District, but definitely Wrynose Pass going up from Ambleside. The only saving grace about the Muro di Sormano is that being a narrow lane, it is generally traffic free, unlike the comparable climbs in the UK.

Time was marching on as I plodded through this forest, and the sun was beginning to set. As much as I was enjoying the scenery which mixed woodland with rock, it was still disconcerting not knowing when this road was going to finish. I knew I wasn't far from the main road but it was nowhere in sight and there I was all alone.

None of the riders I had seen earlier were on this road. It seems like they had taken the much easier and sensible option of riding the 5km detour along the very gentle climb known as Colma di Sormano. Maybe I should have done the same, but on all previous occasions that I had cycled this way I had opted for the Colma, and for once I just wanted to try the Muro. I made the immediate decision, though, that this would be the last time I ever "ride" along this road!

One other rider as crazy as myself was attempting this challenge too. It was an old boy in civvies and his bike had a dinner plate-sized cassette so he was able to spin up the road for longer than I managed. But even he gave up the ghost two-thirds of the way up. This Muro di Sormano takes no prisoners!

Eventually, I heard the sound of people shouting above, and getting in their cars. What a relief that I was getting back into civilisation! Once at the top of the road I looked back and marvelled at how far the road had climbed over the one mile stretch - even if I had only managed to cycle half of it.


Out of the Woods and Down to the Lake

Given that it was getting late I didn't bother to stop for a coffee. It was just a case of pushing on back to Como. In fact, I didn't have to push at all because from then on it was just one long descent through the Pian del Tivano, and the village of Nesso. Although the ride was effortless, it did require concentration as the switchbacks were very tight and steep. I needed to be mindful of oncoming vehicles as well as the vehicles that I caught up with.

Even though Lake Como was close by, there was no sign of it below, and I was constantly riding through wild remote woodland. At one point I wondered if I was on the right road.

Eventually the descent took me to the junction with the main road and suddenly the lake reappeared. Phew, I was on the home run. It was just a 15km ride back to Como where I celebrated with an ice cream.

Back to the flatlands at Como where an ice cream awaits

It had felt like a long afternoon, but that was more because of my "hillwalking" experience mid-ride.

I would definitely recommend this loop, though it's not necessary to do the hard option that I went for. You don't have to ride the Muro di Sormano. The Colma is pretty doable and it is also very pretty. Other options from Ghisallo are to leave out Sormano and drop straight down towards Erba, then veer off to Ponte Lambro and take a gently undulating road towards Tavernerio, Ponzate, Civiglio, followed by a fast descent into Como.

If you do go for the more testing loop, use a bike that has the biggest dinner-plate gears you can find, otherwise wear shoes that you can walk in!

Check out my route on Strava


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My Tour of Lombardy: Naviglio Pavese and Naviglio Grande

After a settling day in Milan I hit the road doing proper bike rides. One day was an easy outing along the Navigli Grande and Pavese, the next day was a hilly ride around Lake Como and up Ghisallo.

Naviglio Day

In an ideal world this would have been my southern Lombardy bike ride, going past Pavia and into the Oltrepo Pavese area. I had it mapped out in mind, to get down to Casteggio and do a loop from there, taking in places like the hilltop village of Montalto Pavese, Salice Terme, and maybe even Zavartarello - places on the edge of Lombardy province, bordering on Piedmont and into the wine region that not a lot of people know about (and which I would say is a mini version of Tuscany).

Unfortunately, I wasn't actually feeling great and was on the verge of getting a cold, so had to take it easy rather than climbing too many hills. In any case time was not on my side. I made an attempt at a getaway in that direction, but the traffic first thing in the morning was pants, even though we were travelling away from Milan.

The start of the Naviglio Grande in central Milan

So with all of that conspiring against me I made an executive decision to stop somewhere near Chiesa Rossa and start my ride from there. This town is know as the official start line of the Milan-Sanremo professional bike race (rather than the ceremonial parade from Central Milan) and I decided to make it my official start too for my flat bike ride, rather than taxing myself in the hills.

These canal paths or Navigli are great cycle routes for if you're wanting to get out of town. There are three that lead from central Milan to small surrounding towns roughly 20 miles away. The Naviglio Pavese and Naviglio Grande are near one another and both start from the Darsena channel near Piazza 25 Maggio among all the bars and restaurants. The third, Naviglio Martesana is more to the North-east of the city, past the Stazione Centrale.  Since the time I lived there they have been smartened up with the paths resurfaced, sign-posting put up and distance markings painted on the ground.

Resurfaced cycle path with signage

Naviglio Pavese

From where I parked I got onto the Naviglio Pavese and headed south towards Pavia. This canal path, which leads from central Milan to just outside the picturesque town of Pavia (which to me looks like little Florence), is a great place for riders of all persuasions. And that's what I saw along the way.

There were people using it as their commute to get to work, others were out for a leisurely bike ride, though not in great numbers given that it was a foggy Friday morning. Then there were the harder core club riders who rode it like they were on a mission, some perhaps trying to beat their Strava record. Whatever church the rider belonged to, they all said "Ciao"as they passed me.

Naviglio Pavese

This Naviglio passes various villages and hamlets, and if you have time there are a couple of churches, monuments, and relics from a bygone age of functioning canals you can visit. There's even a museum of coffee making machines nearby if that's your thing. But I didn't have time to do that during my ride.

Naviglio Grande

By the time I reached Certosa di Pavia the fog had become quite thick, and it was getting sketchy, even trying to see other riders a short distance away. So I turned around and headed towards Milan, which was bathed in sunshine, where at Binasco I left the Naviglio Pavese and cycled west to pick up the Naviglio Grande.

Trezzano sul Naviglio

The roads in between these two canal paths are to be endured rather than enjoyed. They're not so busy give or take the odd truck, but they are not particularly picturesque. There are plenty of factories and arable farms if you like looking at that sort of thing, and then every now and again you get a random prostitute near a lorry park. Oh, well. No, this aint no Tuscany - just a criss cross of suburban roads to get you to the various motorways; roads that take you through commercial and industrial areas that help make the Milan economy one of the strongest in Italy.

Thankfully, I was soon back onto the pretty Naviglio Grande, which has a suburban forest and picnic areas as well as ornate churches at Gaggiano and Trezzano. For those into open water swimming, something I have dipped my toe in, there is a swimming race from central Milan out to Abbiategrasso. The paths and surrounding areas are definitely pleasant, but the water might be another story!

One short section along the path that was closed for maintenance. With bollards blocking us off and heavy machinery in sight there was no way of passing through there, even on foot. So I was obliged to take a diversion. I could see a path that appeared to cut across fields to get around the the works and wondered if it was worth trying that option rather than making a 3-mile diversion, or riding along the very busy parallel road.

Gaggiano - nice day for a bike ride

It was interesting seeing the varying pieces of advice from the different local riders I asked. A few just said, "Absolutely not - you'll definitely get a puncture." They also looked like they wouldn't have even wanted the slightest fleck of dust on their flashy steeds. A couple of others just said, it is possible to get through but I had to "be very careful". In the end I took the short cut, and to be honest, I don't know what all the fuss had been about. The road surface was nowhere as bad as pave in Paris-Roubaix - not even a bit of Strade Bianche. These Italian guys were real snowflakes! I bet they don't ride when the sun's not shining either!

So I continued along my way and returned to my base in the sunshine near Chiesa Rossa. By the time I finished it was lunchtime and many more cyclists and club runs had come out, making the most of this very pleasant Friday afternoon.

I was pleased with my Naviglio ride, though I still have it on my list to ride in Oltrepo Pavese the next time I am in Lombardy - and I will even drink some wine.


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