Bella Italia by bike: Bergamo to Como

On the road again to Lecco

After my ride from Bergamo to Lecco yesterday, I was all set to do the longer ride up to Como via Madonna del Ghisallo. It was going to be a long day as the plan was to get to Como, go for a swim along the way, and then on my arrival at Como I would catch the train to Milan where I would return the bike to the hire shop.

Having done the Bergamo-Lecco section of the ride yesterday, I felt comfortable as I had an idea what the terrain would be like, and I knew it wouldn't be particularly onerous - at least the first section.

Riding through the suburbs of Bergamo I came across a new cycle path that I hadn't previously seen, and was curious to take it, hoping that this would take me towards the road to Lecco. It did go towards Lecco, but was along a main road.  

Initially the main road had a cycle path on it, which I had hoped would lead me all the way to Lecco - fat chance. Lecco was a good 25 miles away, so it was wishful thinking that the path would continue for that distance. In fact as I wondered to myself how long the path would last for, my question was answered when it came to an abrupt end on the city limits of Bergamo.

At this point I could have turned right to take the more scenic route through Valbrembo. However, I didn't want to lose time and this main road didn't seem to have much traffic on it. I had seen the roads of  Valbrembo the previous day, so was happy to check out this main road.

Where Valbrembo had narrow country roads up through woodland and past hilltop palazzos, the main road was gently undulating through less spectacular countryside, though still with the odd panoramic views of the Lombardy landscape neutralising the industrial or retail parks in the various settlements. 

Although it was Monday morning and on a main road, traffic was surprisingly light. This was early June though, and many Italians may have still been off work, having taken an extended holiday following the Republic Day public holiday.

Pedalling along the road in the sunshine, I felt relaxed and allowed my mind to wander as I ambled through this part of Italy that was off the tourist path, but was still very pretty. Every so often my reverie would be interrupted by a "Ciao" or "Salve", as an agile club cyclist breezed past me effortlessly full speed ahead. Given how lean they looked I am sure that one or two of these guys were professional riders. In his Bardiani-CSF kit he definitely looked like someone I might have seenn on TV.  

Soon I reached Caprino Bergamasco and got caught up in a traffic jam. After winding my way past the cars and vans I got to the front and found out what the hold-up was - a level crossing. Unsurprisingly right at the head of the queue were motorcyclists and cyclists. 

Given the queue it seemed like the barriers had already been down for several minutes. One train came past, and we all prepared ourselves for the barriers to raise. But nothing. "Ma dai!" (Come on!), the motorcyclist said as he began to lose patience. The cyclist explained that there was probably another train about to pass through. There then ensued a conversation between the cyclist and the motorbiker about how inefficient things are around there. "It's not right to make people wait for 15 minutes for the trains to come through. We have places to get to!"

Plus ça change, as they say!

Soon after the level crossing my route reached Cisano Bergamasco where a memorial wall caused me to stop and look at the numerous photographs with messages displayed of people who had died during the Covid pandemic. Some were just posters showing a photo of the person and the information about where their funeral would be taking place. Others were mini tributes and poems dedicated to loved ones. It was sad to see the range of ages of the various people. Some were just in their 20s or 30s. Let's not forget that Italy, and specifically Bergamo, for a time became the epicentre for coronavirus when the disease spread outside of China.

Apart from a mini climb up to Pontida, and a breezy descent to Cisano Bergamasco the road had been gently undulating or flat, and would stay like that until just outside Bellagio, which was fine by me. It was tempting to stop, but I knew I still had a long way ahead of me as I still had not yet reached Lecco, and after Bellagio the ride would become a slog up Ghisallo and an even longer grind in Sormano, before reaching Como.

The run into Lecco was really pleasant and tranquil, considering that there are quite a lot of busy main roads in the vicinity. A cycle path along the lake meant that there was no interaction with any motorised traffic and the route was just shared with other cyclists, walkers and joggers. 

Lecco as seen from the other side of the Y

Once in the centre of Lecco I then picked up the road to take me to the other side of the lake, meaning the inside of the upside down Y-shape of Lake Como so that I could head towards Bellagio. Immediately after crossing the lake my route took me straight into the village of Malgrate, with its delightful Lungomare from where you could admire the view of the sailing boats. Looking across the lake took me back to the recent past, yesterday -  in which I rode through Lecco and continued along a lakeside cycle path on the same side of the Y, to reach a tranquil beach near Pradello.  

From where I was standing, in Malgrate, it was hard to imagine that I was on the other side of this expanse of water less than 24 hours earlier. That's the beauty of visiting Lake Como. Well, enough of my reverie. It was time to push on. Next stop, Bellagio.

Onwards to the blessed Madonna

Shortly after leaving sunny Malgrate I was plunged into a long dark tunnel. That was by far my least favourite part of the ride. Suddenly finding yourself in a practically pitch black, sharing the road with all sorts of vehicles including trucks. There was a strip to the side of the road which made for a de facto cycle path, but the road surface was rough. For this reason I had made sure to carry a light with me, as well as a high-vis jacket. In my experience I have found them to be useful, even essential to feel safe when cycling around Italy. Some tunnels are thankfully only about 500m, but in this area I had two tunnels, each one almost one mile long. By the time I emerged from the second tunnel my heart was pounding as I heaved a big sigh of relief. At least there would be no more tunnels until close to Como. 

Stopover and handy place for a dip on the way to Bellagio

Arriving on a stretch of road where all the traffic from the tunnel had magically disappeared was the perfect antidote. My road to Bellagio was peaceful and generally flat as it wound around the mountainous inner triangular area of Lake Como. At this point along the provincial 583 road I was right next to the lake shore, and there were laybys and parking areas where it was possible to stop and walk onto the shore, or even take a swim. A number of motorcyclists had had this idea, and I must admit it was a very tempting proposition to do the same. But I had had in mind to treat myself to a swim and a drink at Faggeto Lario, a designated Lido area and bar within Lake Como. So I pressed on, just stopping to make use of the water fountains at certain points along the way, which was very useful given how hot the day was.

Just outside Belllagio, the road began to climb. This is a town, known as the jewel of Lake Como is a place I have been to on numerous occasions and I can say with authority, that it is beautiful and worth a visit. However, I was pushed for time and I knew that if I went there I would be lured into hanging out in the town for quite a while. So I just continued along my way and followed the sign for Erba and Magreglio, and immediately entered into climbing territory. 

Madonna del Ghisallo: 9.4km; ave gradient 6%; max gradient 14.7%; altitude: 758m

I was all set for around 10km of climbing to reach the chapel that honours cyclists, and the adjacent museum. The Madonna del Ghisallo climb is always full of cyclists. At any time of any day riders can be found cresting this climb, all at various speeds, though most going faster than I! As I get older I feel myself struggling more and more with the opening kilometres, which are not far off 10%. The first time I cycled up this climb I took it easy, finding just the opening section, then the last part a little tough. There is a mid-section through woodland which where the road levels off. However, on this day I still found it hard-going. There wasn't any section where I felt I could relax, apart from a part about 6km in when the road went downhill and it's easy to mistake this section for being the summit. What kept me going during the ride were the spectacular views of Lake Como and the mountains behind it. I never tire of this view. There is really nothing like it.

Lake Como seen from the Ghisallo climb

Once at the summit, a couple of guys who had passed me on the way gave me a clap a cheery "Bravo". Although there weren't loads of people there, with it being a Monday afternoon, I still ended up spending a long time having lunch, taking photos and chatting to other riders. There was an American guy on a mountain bike who had taken some time out from riding the trails to ride up the iconic climb. Coming from Colorado he was no stranger to spectacular landscapes or hills. With his sinewy legs he had ridden up the trails within the Lariano triangle and up some of the peaks, and was due to ride more. I have walked and done a trail running race in this area in the past, and I know that the Lariano triangle has some tough trails. But I guess a rider from Colorado he will have felt at home up there.

I also chatted to a couple of French guys who were bike packing from Bergamo to Milan that day, but would be continuing to their home in Lyon by bicycle. Finally, a woman admiring the view had ridden up from Erba - literally down the road from where we were. It was funny to see a local person admiring the view in the same way as we were, when it's something that she could see almost every day. But then again, I still marvel at the views from Box Hill, Surrey, or from the Puddledock side of Toys Hill, Kent, even though they are comparatively local to where I live.   

Between having my lunch, taking photos, chatting to other riders and paying a quick trip to the museum and gift shop and chatting to the shop assistant there, I ended up spending over an hour at the Ghisallo summit. So much for only wanting to do a quick stopover in order to gain time! Meeting those different people was worth it though.

Madonna del Ghisallo Chapel

Struggle up Sormano

After my extended lunchtime break came the lovely descent followed by a sharp right-hand turn up the switchbacks to reach Sormano village. I could tell I was not feeling so fit because the hairpins felt like hard work even though the last time I was there, probably in 2018, it didn't feel like that much of an effort.

Then came the decision point at the fork, I could take the left-hand road down into beautiful woodland and then be met by the terrible Muro di Sormano. Or I could continue on the same road on a circuitous route along a gentle five-mile drag, the Colma di Sormano, to reach the same point at the summit car park and restaurant. This was a no-brainer; the Colma for me. It was not necessarily an easy ride up to the Colma di Sormano, but it was a darn sight easier than the alternative. At least this was rideable. I did try the Muro once a few years ago, and after almost bursting my quads then relinquishing and walking up the one-mile climb I said "never again"!

Along the way, I was passed by a few local riders who said a friendly "Ciao" as they ambled up the road. One guy rode alongside me for about half a mile, chatting. I warned him that I was too tired to go any faster, but he said he didn't mind. "So why didn't you go up the Muro di Sormano?" I asked out of curiosity. "The Muro?" he said, like I had asked him a totally absurd question. "No one goes up there. It's crazy! You think you are taking a three-kilometre short cut but you end up spending half-an-hour to get up there. It's not worth it. I want to enjoy my ride." So I was glad to know I wasn't taking the wimp-out option. Eventually, he rode on saying he'd be waiting for me at the top. "Okay," I said, thinking that he had just said that to be polite.

Meanwhile, I pressed on at my own snail pace in the heat, feeling more comfortable about riding slowly and not slowing anyone down. I had forgotten how much of a climb the Colma is. It actually climbs noticeably. In fact, the Colma di Sormano is nearer to 10km, with a gradient of 7%, with sections at almost 9%. That makes it comparable to the Ghisallo climb in effort, and at an altitude of 1,116m, is significantly higher than the summit chapel in Magreglio.  

Eventually I reached the summit, from where a car park provided spectacular views over the Pian del Tivano and the various peaks of the so-called Triangolo Lariano, the terrain within the upside down Y-shaped Lake Como.

Colma di Sormano: 9.5km; ave gradient 6.7%; max gradient 13%; altitude 1116m

Surprisingly I found the cycling buddy who had passed me, in the car park. I can't believe he really had waited for me at the top. I imagine he'd probably had a three-course at the restaurant to kill time while waiting for me. 

"Gee, I'm knackered," I said to him. Thankfully it is downhill now," 

"Well, I guess you're not used to it if you are from London." 

He had a point. Mind you, I can't say I'm used to all the hills in London either! When I told him that I had started from Bergamo and was headed for Como he was very impressed. "Brava!" he said. Then we parted company as he was returning to his base back down in Sormano, while I pushed on in the opposite direction.

Breezing back down to Lake Como

The descent to Nesso was amazing, though a little scary, given the tight hairpins that appeared to be practically stacked on top of one another in parts. Thankfully, there were not many cars on the descent that would make me go uncomfortably slow on the narrow and twisty roads, and make overtaking difficult. Once again, the views were amazing, especially as Lake Como came back into view. 

Finally, I was back on the SP583 lakeside road back to Como. Time was marching on and it became a race against the clock, as I wanted to get the train straight from the Como Lago station down to Milan-Cadorna, which was just a short ride from the bike hire shop. Those trains were only one every half-hour, so I wanted to get one promptly in order to arrive in Milan before the shop closed.

Still, I wanted to enjoy my time in this beautiful part of the world, which I had not been able to visit for the last couple of years. So at Faggetto Lario I took the very steep road down to the lake shore to check out the lido and bar. Even if I only had a 10-minute dip, it would have been bliss. On my arrival, the place looked a bit of a disappointment. There was a Lido, there was a bar, and there were sun-loungers too, giving a beautiful close-up view of Lake Como and the mountains shrouding it's clear rippling water. But there was pop music - the kind I am not keen on - and folks that reminded me of Brits abroad. They weren't Brits though, they were Italian. At least all that cavorting behaviour on the beach is not restricted to folks from Blighty! Anyway, I was in a rush and I judged that it was not worth me changing into swimwear. So I just turned round and bust a gut riding back up the 15% gradient hairpins to pick up the main road, and enjoy a brisk lakeside ride back to Como.

Another thing that hadn't changed from back home was the traffic. Como, being a popular place attracts hordes of visitors including those travelling in by car, and the approach roads into the town centre always end up being chock-a-block. So from the tranquil start that I had had from Bergamo in the morning, I was faced with all the late afternoon chaos on the streets of Como. Using my London cyclist skills I managed to weave around the cars and reach Como Lago train station, just in time to board the 1646 train to Milan-Cadorna station. It's a pity there had been no time to stroll around Como, or get a gelato, but no worries. I've done that in Como many times before, and there will be many more times to do so, I'm sure.

Darsena Waterfront, Milan

Once I dropped off the bicycle, I enjoyed a nostalgic stroll around Central Milan, and a gelato plus anti-pasti on the Darsena Waterfront. With 108km and 1800m of climbing on the clock, I think these treats were well-deserved. 

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Bella Italia by bike: Bergamo to Lecco

Many years ago I lived in Milan, and would regularly catch the train out of town to ride in the more scenic areas outside of this industrial metropole in Italy. One of my favourite areas was Como. The train  would take me right up to the shores of Lake Como. Then from there I could ride up the steep road to Civiglio and Brunate, or go further out to Bellagio and then to Magreglio, via the famous Madonna del Ghisallo climb. The challenging 10km uphill roads are rewarded by beautiful views over Lake Como and the Italian Alps in the distance, as well as a warm welcome from fellow cyclists at the cycling museum and the chapel.

It's been a while since I was last in this area, so as part of my return to travelling following the extended coronavirus restrictions I went on a long weekend to Bergamo and hired a road bike to do a few rides. Partly motivated by nostalgia, and partly by a wish to see if I'd still got it even in my advancing age, I did an extended ride from Bergamo to Como via the Madonna del Ghisallo climb.

The first part of my challenge involved doing a "test ride" the day before the big ride, from Bergamo to Lecco. My ride started from the centre of Bergamo, where I cycled through the historic part of the city, though not up through the Citta Alta (Upper Town) and along cycle paths and quiet residential streets to pick up the road towards Lecco. 

Monte Bastia and Val Brembo

Rather than take the main SS342 road I chose the inland route through a few hills. In that nearby area was the area of Monte Bastia with its woodland trails and hilltop churches, monasteries and castles. I wasn't about to do any hiking, but if I had decided to do so, it would have made for a pleasant, albeit fat-burning afternoon. On this Sunday afternoon there were a number of leisure cyclists and club riders riding up and down the climbs in this area known as Valbrembo (named after the local river, the Brembo) and it seemed that the popular climb to do was the climb up to the Madonna del Bosco church. There was no cycling museum at the top of this climb, but there were still some spectacular views of the nearby mountain range.

After a fast descent to the river, and then a climb through Brembate to reach the main road near Pontida. This road was still very scenic, and was quite relaxing to be on given the lack of traffic. I assume a lot of locals were still enjoying an extended Sunday pranzo.  

After Cisano Bergamasco my route took me onto a minor road to Calolziocorte, and once again I was treated to more nice views. To my right were the mountains that separated me from Bergamo, such as the Val Imagna and the Val Brembilla, and the rocky outcrops at the side of the road were the only parts of these mountains that I got to see. 

To my left I managed to get glimpses of lakes in the distance. Lecco sits on the eastern arm of Lake Como, which is fed by the river Adda. Along its course are other lakes that never get talked about, but are equally beautiful and worth stopping at - Lago di Olginate and Lago di Garlate. The latter was the one I experienced when I dropped down from the road to take a cycle path that went right along the water. There are a few campsites along this section and areas to just pitch up and have a picnic. 

Ciclopista Lecco-Abbadia

As I had my swimming kit in my rucksack, I was keen to find a good place to have a dip. To be fair, this was a reasonable area to stop, especially as there were lots of folks also messing about on the water - swimming or paddleboarding. However, I was keen to get further into Lecco and find a place with a bit more wow factor. Maybe I was being greedy - after all, I was already on Lake Como - what else did I want?? 

In any case, I continued along the path and later reached central Lecco where I found myself mingling with countless daytrippers, picnickers, joggers, folks on motorcycles, and unsurprisingly, end-to-end traffic along the main drag. 

Fortunately for me, I was able to ride along what appeared to be a recently constructed segregated cycle path (known as the Ciclopista Abbadia-Lecco) that ran right along the lake. After following this for a couple of miles I reached Pradello beach and that's where I stopped.

Pradello beach

This is probably one of the best kept secrets along Lake Como, as the beach, set in from a bay and down some steps from the cycle path and road, wasn't crowded despite the hot day. The water was as clear as in a swimming pool, and there was a bar nearby too. We were just surrounded by towering rocks from the Lecco hinterland, and the vastness of the lake, which seemed like an ocean!

I locked my bike to a nearby tree and got changed to get in a swim in the fresh, cooling water, before lounging and reading my book. A one-hour stopover was enough for me, before I upped sticks to ride to Lecco train station and head back to Bergamo. I must say this was perfect timing, as the sky suddenly turned black and as the train pulled out of Lecco the heavens opened!

When I alighted from the train at Bergamo the rain was coming to a stop and within half-an-hour the sun had returned, and I was ready to go out and join the locals for a passeggiata around the historic Citta Alta with its 16th century defence walls and its various medieval churches and monuments.  

View of Bergamo from the Citta Alta

My ride had been just what I needed - something more spectacular than my usual rides back home, with a couple of hills, but nothing too strenuous. I was looking forward to doing this and going further the following day. 

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Photo of the day - 15: Crystal Palace Hills

It's getting to that time of year again when hill climbs take place. People travel long distances to race all of a couple of minutes up a very steep hill. It's a different kind of race that only seems to exist in the UK. I have heard of similar sorts of races abroad. In Italy they are known as cronoscalata, and they do them in France too. But in those events people are racing up proper mountain passes where good amateur racers could still be riding for an hour. They normally happen on iconic climbs like Alpe d'Huez, France or Madonna del Ghisallo, Italy. But in this country we have a season full of these races, meaning that although some venues are famous such as Cat and Fiddle, Box Hill or Winnats Pass (the venue for this year's national championships), many hills are unknown to all but those local to the area and hill climb aficionados. 

My quirky side got the better of me last year, and I did some hill climb races last year. I got the bug and I am doing some again this year. I am pretty slow compared to the rest of the field, but I do find that these sorts of hills do improve my own riding and hill climbing ability, so that's why I am happy to stick with it. I also enjoy those few minutes where you really push yourself so hard and everyone is there shouting and cheering for you. At the bigger events it's just like what you see on TV when the racers go up a mountain pass and massive crowds are shouting "Allez allez" at the riders.

As part of my preparation I ride the hills near where I live. We are lucky to have a choice of hills in the Crystal Palace area, so I can regularly get in a small hilly loop either at lunchtime, or in the case of today, just after work and before my clarinet class. In the 14.5km ride (9 miles approx) I managed to get in six hills and 280m (850ft approx) of climbing. The loop includes what I call the dreaded trio of Westwood Park, Canonbie Road, and Eliot Bank.  I always get apprehensive about these climbs before I ride them, but in a strange way I also feel that I have to ride them because I live in hope that in time I will learn to like them, and I will get stronger.

This is a typical quick loop that I do. To get more hills in I can also add in the ones that come up from Dulwich, and the ones in the conservation area of Crystal Palace. 

Photo of the day - 6: Talking to Norma Gimondi about Felice

 

As part of the work that I am doing on a feature article about the Tour of Lombardy I had the pleasure of interviewing Norma Gimondi on the phone. She is the daughter of the man above, Felice Gimondi, one of Italy's greatest bike racers. 

Felice won all three of the Grand Tours (Tour de France, Giro d'Italia, Vuelta a Espana) in the 60s and 70s, including winning the Giro three times. He also won the World Championships in 1973, and the Tour of Lombardy twice. The great man sadly passed away at the age of 76, a couple of years ago after suffering a heart attack while on holiday. 

I have good memories of interviewing Felice Gimondi in Bergamo in 2012, when I took part in the eponymous cyclosportive (Gran Fondo) held in his honour. So it was good to speak to Norma today. She had lots of stories to tell about her father's days racing, and she spoke with a lot of pride. She mentioned how much he enjoyed riding up the Madonna del Ghisallo climb, and how he got the hunger knock and left with nothing to eat he had to pick figs off the trees. She also mentioned how upset Eddy Merckx was when Felice beat him at the Tour of Lombardy. Even in 2014 at gala event, almost 50 years after the event, Eddy didn't want to be reminded of the day and refused to autograph a photo she had of her dad crossing the finish line ahead of Merckx. 

Norma said it always makes her feel happy to talk about Papa, as she calls him. Based in Bergamo, where the family is established, Norma is a lawyer by trade, and she is also vice president of the Italian Cycling Federation. For her, it is important to preserve the Gimondi name in cycling, and that is one way that she can do it - through being involved in Italian cycling. I really enjoyed my chat with Norma Gimondi, and hope I get to meet her in person in the not-distant future.

Sport after a life-changing injury

Recently two elite athletes were badly injured in cycling accidents. The circumstances of the incidents were slightly different, but the outcomes will have been equally traumatic.

Edo Maas

On 6 October 19-year old Edo Maas was hit by a car that strayed onto the course while he was competing in the Mini Tour of Lombardy (Il Piccolo Lombardia) Under-23 cycle race.

As he was coming down from the Madonna del Ghisallo climb between Asso and Canzo a car whose driver had ignored the "stop" signs that there was a race, drove onto the course.

Edo, who was travelling at 70kph (38mph) per hour had nowhere to go and couldn't brake in time collided with the vehicle and crashed to the ground leaving him unconscious with a broken back and neck, plus lesions to his face.

A prompt emergency response saw the Dutch youngster air-lifted and operated on at Niguarda Hospital in Milan and doctors were able to save his life. However, the doctors were unable to repair the damage to key nerves in his back, and they said that it is unlikely that Edo will ever regain the use of his legs.

The woman driving the car is now being investigated for causing serious injuries by dangerous driving.

Team Sunweb, the team that Edo races for made the emotional announcement two weeks ago, and they, along with the Maas family have urged the UCI to give higher priority to rider safety during cycle races.

Last week, we then learned of the news that Claire Danson, a European Triathlon Champion at the 30-34 Age group championships, and sister of Team GB Hockey player Alex Danson has been permanently paralysed.

Claire Danson

In a post she wrote on her Instagram account Claire revealed that on 28 August she suffered multiple fractures and punctured lungs following a collision with a tractor while riding her bike.

Claire's injuries are healing, except for the injury to her spinal cord at the T9 vertebra, which has left her paralysed from the waist down.

These incidences occurred just over a year after the German World Keirin Track Cycling Champion Kristina Vogel lost the use of her legs after a high-speed collision with another rider while training at the Cottbus Velodrome near Berlin in June 2018. The then 27-year old severed her spinal cord a the T7 vertebra leaving her permanently confined to a wheelchair.

I feel so sorry to hear these pieces of news. All of these athletes were in their prime, at the top of their game, and sport was a central part in their lives. Then to suddenly suffer these traumatic injuries must be so heart-breaking.

Kristina Vogel

Kristina gave a heart-rendering interview to the BBC last year a few weeks after her injury.

Naturally, Kristina had cried a lot and had to come to terms with her new situation but the quote that stood out for me was when she said: "I still love my life. So nothing changed, really. Just how I move. I'm going to do a lot of things in my wheelchair. It's different, but it's still my life, so why not be happy."

I, and many people were so impressed and inspired by her strength, courage, and positive attitude in the wake of this life-changing injury.

This takes me back to when another athlete who suffered paralysis after an accident. In 2001 in the days when I did triathlon, Paula Craig, an age-group triathlete was the woman to beat in my age-group. The detective sergeant who was part of the Metropolitan Police triathlon team, was doing one of her last bike rides the week before doing the Bournemouth Triathlon World Age Group Championships qualifier race when she was hit by a car on a country road. The car, travelling at 60 miles per hour was driven by an 84-year old man who admitted he was not wearing his glasses.

From one moment to the next Paula went from being a triathlete to a para-triathlete when she was confined to a wheelchair.

Paula Craig MBE (with Dame Cressida Dick,
Metropolitan Police Commissioner)

This was quite shocking for all of us in what was quite a close-knit community. Paula spent five months in hospital, and during that time she bought herself a handcycle and slowly began to do light exercises as part of her recovery.

A year after her accident Paula competed in the wheelchair race at the London Marathon and is the first person to have competed as an athlete and a para-athlete in that event. (As an able-bodied athlete she had done 2h 57 in the London marathon.) She also competed in the World Para-Triathlon Championships and won that.

As well as keeping her job at the Metropolitan Police which saw her promoted to Detective Inspector at the Homicide Squad and the Terrorism Squad, Paula became a motivational speaker, and in 2005 she was awarded an MBE for services to the police.

Paula's story goes to show how she has made something positive out of a life-changing situation and I feel inspired by her. I hope that I can have the same attitude as she does in very difficult life-changing circumstances. I also wish Kristina, Claire, and Edo all the best.

Italian cycling tales from towns on the Giro d'Italia route - 2

Stories from the places on the 2019 Giro d'Italia route. One thing I liked about watching the Giro d'Italia cycle race was when the route went through areas that I am familiar with - either places where I lived or stayed when on holiday, or places I cycled through.

Here are some of the stages that brought me some fond memories.

Commezzadura (Val di Sole) to Anterselva (Stage 17)

The first section of this stage is an area I am familiar with, having done an event called the Giro di Dolomiti. It's a one-week cyclosportive in stages held in late July/early August, based in Bolzano.

The novelty about this event is that the General Classification is not based on the time taken to complete each of the stages, but just the time to do the main climb of each stage. The rest of the time people ride the remaining part of the stage at a leisurely pace, enjoying the Dolomites. You are even treated to a sit-down meal at altitude somewhere along the route.

Making friends at the Giro di Dolomiti

The year I did it, in 2006, Passo Mendola was the main climb of the first stage. I remember it well because I'd been so anxious about the event, and I was not sure if I would be fit enough. Italian bike riders use cyclosportives as de facto road races, so no one seems to ride on their own at their own pace. Or at least that's how things had looked to me.

In fact, it was at this race that I learned that cyclosportives need not always be a speedfest. In particular in this cyclosportive I knew I would only need to put in a hard effort for one climb, and the rest of the time it would just be a trans-Dolomiti social with folks from various parts of Europe.

Passo Mendola, which we climbed from Bolzano (the opposite way to the riders this year) was about 10 miles long, but it had a gentle gradient. Once I had gotten that out of the way I felt fine.

It was also nice because on that day I met some guys who had come to the event from Kent, and an Australian girl, Yvette who was half Italian and half Australian and working for Pinarello. We built up a camaraderie for the rest of the week, and met other people too. That contributed to me having a really good time at the Giro di Dolomiti. I would definitely recommend this event.

The riders in this year's Giro d'Italia took the main road to get from Bolzano to Ponte Gardena. However, it is possible to do this route on a traffic-free path. Google maps doesn't show this route for bicycles, however it is there and it is quite a pleasant tarmacked path that follows the River Adige. I cycled along it to get to Bolzano from Ponte Gardena.

At the time that I rode this I had been staying in Milan as I was working there, and for the August bank holiday I spent a long weekend in Canazei, in the heart of the Dolomites. As part of my return journey (which involved a train via Bolzano and then Verona to get to Milan) I got a bus to Ortisei (or it might have been Plan de Gralba), then rode downhill to Ponte Gardena from where I picked up the cycle path.

Along the way, a local guy on a bicycle decided to ride with me. I just thought it was just your average local who just says hello, where are you from, blah blah blah, and then carries on along his way at a faster pace than me.

However, this guy was not ready to do that at all. I told him that I wouldn't be going very fast because my bike was heavily laden. But he said he didn't mind. His car was sitting in a garage in Ortisei being serviced, so he had all day to hang around and was looking for something to do! So he was all set to ride with me for the duration! Cripes!

He was pretty harmless, and just talked about life and the universe, plus Italians' other favourite subject after football - the state of the economy and corrupt politicians - so I had two hours to learn about this blokes' thoughts on Berlusconi, Beppe Grillo, the Lega Nord, and a bit of Gigi Buffon!

Thankfully, just when I felt I'd had my fill of his opinions and he was about to say, "...and another thing..." we arrived at the outskirts of Bolzano, so he wished me a good day, and went on his way back to Ortisei. I like to think he had got everything off his chest!

This trip back to Bolzano was a lot easier than my outward journey. I had taken a packed train from Milan to Verona in which I and a load of other cyclists had been packed like cattle into a carriage with our bikes on an oppressively hot day. Then I picked up an equally packed train up to Ponte Gardena, from where I had planned to ride up to Canazei with all my luggage.

Progress was very slow as I sauntered up the road on my fully laden bike. The first 20km of the 30km route was uphill, as far as the Passo di Sella. Every so often I would phone the proprietor of the B&B where I had a room reserved, to say that there would be a delay in my arrival time, especially as it was getting to evening and I still had to ride up (and then down) the Passo di Sella.

Finally at around 7.30pm, when I arrived at Selva di Val Gardena I popped into a hotel and got them to call a taxi for me. The taxi driver told me it would cost 80 euros to take me to Canazei.

Delightful Dolomiti - the Sella range of mountains

Not wanting to pay so much I told him to take me just to the summit of Passo di Sella, and then I would roll 10km down the hill to Canazei. He reluctantly agreed to do so, fearing that I would catch hyperthermia riding down from the summit (which was at 2,218m) at that time of the evening.

He was right about the descent being really cold, but I just wore every bit of clothing in my luggage. It was a beautiful descent. Although it had been a challenging day, I felt lucky to have had the chance to see the Sella Ronda and the Dolomites rocks from up close at sunset. The area looked amazing.


Lovere to Ponte di Legno (Stage 16)

As the pre-planned climb of Passo di Gavia had to be removed from this stage of the Giro d'Italia due to snow, Mortirolo became the main climb of this stage. It was quite a spectacle watching the riders climb up it from the hard side, Mazzo.

Summit of Mortirolo

This takes me back to the time when I rode up the Mortirolo a few years ago when I was based in Milan and took the train up to Tirano for a long weekend in the high Italian Alps. As Mortirolo was not so far from where I was staying I decided to ride it one Friday afternoon.

I was having a bit of trouble finding the climb so a friendly local cyclist, Giulio, showed me the way there. He got me to follow his wheel along the valley road, and we arrived at Tovo Sant'Agata near Mazzo, where he dropped me off.

A butcher by trade, Giulio only worked in the morning and would spend every afternoon riding around the local climbs - Gavia, Aprica, Ponte di Legno, Bormio, Stelvio and of course Mortirolo. So for him to take a few minutes out of his afternoon to ride with me along a valley road was probably light relief!

I held his wheel like my life depended on it as he drafted off a rather speedy tractor. By the time he dropped me off at Tovo Sant'Agata the sweat was pouring down my face and I then I contemplated this monster I had to climb. "Just take is steady," Giulio said. "You'll be fine."

I came out of the climb alive, but it was not fine at all. The climb was so steep, and I ended up having to get off my bike and walk. I felt really stupid to have chosen the Mortirolo as my first climb of the trip when I hadn't found my climbing legs.

On the way up to Mortirolo from Mazzo

It was a Friday afternoon, and I was wondering if I would get back home before dinner! Eventually I came out of the woods - metaphorically as well as physically - and I had a lovely view of the Valtellina valley area.

Then I dropped downhill to a town called Monno. This descent was quite shallow and it made me realise that this was the side I should have ridden up the Mortirolo.

The views around were so beautiful and the descent was not technical, so with a nice end to my ride it made me forget about the earlier difficulties in the afternoon.

The rest of my weekend was spent riding up to Bormio and to Stelvio. Time didn't allow me to go up the Gavia, and I made a resolution to return there to ride. My next trip to the area was to go skiing in Aprica, and I haven't returned there since. So Passo di Gavia is still on my bucket list.


Ivrea to Como (Stage 15)

Lake Como at Bellagio

Of all the stages of this year's Giro d'Italia this is the stage I am most familiar with it. I have ridden in most of the sections of this stage.

As I spent 18 months in Milan, and still visit the area regularly I always make a point of riding around Lombardy.

The immediate outskirts of Milan are industrial, and sadly they don't have any preserved green belt areas like what you get around London, so a ride from Milan city centre to the nice areas that we know and love is actually quite ugly.

You pass industrial estate after disused factory, after out-of-town retail park, so I would generally cut out these eyesores and get on a local train to Monza or Como, and ride around the Brianza and Lake Como areas. Sometimes I would go to Lecco and Bergamo too.

Madonna del Ghisallo

Arriving into Como was always a nice feeling as I would get off the train and be right next to the beautiful lake. From there I would take the road along the lake, the SP583 to get to Bellagio, and then turn right to climb up to Magreglio, the site of Madonna del Ghisallo.

There are lots of options from here. I could turn back and enjoy the ride along the same road, which is the direction in which the pros cycled along this road during their first passage into Como.

But feeling energetic last autumn I decided to go on to Sormano and then tempt the Muro di Sormano, a quiet narrow, ridiculously steep lane which is a short cut to Pian del Tivano. In hindsight I should have done like the pros and taken the longer, but more gentle Colma di Sormano.

The Muro di Sormano is THE hardest climb I have ever seen on a bike. It is even steeper than those really steep roads in the Lake District. I have yet to meet anyone (outside of elite racers) who can ride this. Apart from the first 150m I ended up walking most of the roughly mile-long (1.7km) climb, and then got on my bike for the last 30 metres.

Embarrasingly when I reached the main road near Pian del Tivano a few hikers cheered at me for having managed to do the climb! I felt it necessary to come clean with them and say I didn't ride it. But they were just impressed I had ridden any part of it at all!

Which way? Turn left for the pain of the Muro di Sormano

The descent to Nesso is hairpin central - pretty technical. At least the pros had a clear road.

I had to deal with cars in front of me, making me either work hard to overtake them safely on the narrow road, or take it handy so that I didn't run into the back of them.

Then once back on the road to Torno it was a real blast to ride along the side of the Lake to get back to Como. I really appreciated the picture postcard that was the town of Como, with its lovely landmarks, in the distance.

The pros then had the pleasure of riding up to Civiglio. I would normally do this route as a separate ride either from Lecco and Ponte Lambro, which is the easy way down, or I would start in Como and do the tough climb up towards Brunate, then turn right to Civiglio when I was two thirds up the climb.

Lake Como as seen from Brunate

This road is not visible while at Lake Como as it is a quiet road that starts at the back of the town. However, while at the lake if you look up you see a lighthouse way up above, and that is where I need to go.....

It's quite daunting, especially as the first part of the climb is quite steep - probably around 12%.  with lots of hairpins. Even driving up there is quite tricky! A few years ago I wrote an article for the former Cycling Active magazine about riding around this area. We did a photo shoot in the area, and it was quite fun.

As Italians like to chat there were quite a few people who were curious to know what we were up to during the photoshoot, and I remember a guy who was quite happy to slow down in his car, while I was riding on a steepish hairpin, and chat to me about what I was doing and shout "forza, dai". It's an Italian thing, I guess.

A well-deserved ice cream awaits in Como

Talking of Italian things, all my rides around this area would end in the main square near Como cathedral, where I would have a gelato before getting the train back to Milan. I miss those times, but I also know that it is easy enough to go back there from London - something that I have done since those days, and will continue to do.


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Italian cycling tales from towns on the Giro d'Italia route - 1

Venturing out to Mortirolo

My Tour of Lombardy

The hills are alive in Tirano

Bella Sella ride

My Tour of Lombardy: Como, Bellagio, Ghisallo, and ooh Sormano!

After a day riding in the flatlands of surburban Milan, I then tackled the the hills around Lake Como - specifically Madonna del Ghisallo and the Sormano climbs featured in the Giro di Lombardia. I could have plumped for one of many choices - Brunate, Intelvi, or nearby Switzerland to go up Morbio and around Mendrisio.

I was happy to go up the classic climbs as it had been five years since I last rode up these climbs. Also given that the last time I was up there was in my pre-Strava days I wanted to get this ride onto the app. Yes, I was shamelessly pandering to the saying, "if it's not on Strava it didn't happen!"

The drive up to Como was straightforward; parking was not. Como, especially on a sunny Saturday afternoon can get so rammed with locals and tourists that it's impossible to find any free parking in the street. On a previous occasion I'd had to drive around a lot, even though it was first thing on a Saturday morning. I eventually found a place to park for free - in Brunate, 500m above Como and after 3 miles of rather steep technical switchbacks and a close encounter with a runaway bus that was coming down from the village!

This time I wasn't going to go through all that palava, so I surrendered myself to pricey fees of multistorey car park on Viale Lecco.


The road to Bellagio

On cycling out of the car park, very quickly I was climbing as I took the road to Bellagio. It was a picturesque route that went along the side of the lake, with lovely views of Como behind me, with the dome of the cathedral dominating the skyline.

Not exactly Como, but nearby Bellagio!

This road rose up and down, twisting and turning while passing through small villages like Blevio and Torno. There are lots of places to stop and get a coffee or an ice cream, or even have a full sit-down meal by the lake if you really want.

The nearby village of Faggeto Lario even had a lido for anyone fancying a dip. One of these days I will do this route and stop off and have a slap up meal. But for today, I had to push on because I had a plan.

After around 20 miles I arrived on the edge of Bellagio where a right hand turn took me up the road to start the classic climb up to Magreglio where the Madonna del Ghisallo church is located. At this point I began to see even more cyclists than before on the road.


Smack my Switch back

The road up to Madonna del Ghisallo was roughly 10km, so not epic in length, but epic in landscape. In short, it's spectacular.

You do have to pedal hard though, and that's the snag - particularly if you've become lardy and sluggish like me!

Those initial 3 or 4 kilometres of steep bends were a shock to the system as the gradient kicked up suddenly. I was breathing heavily, and worried how I would get through it as this was only the start of the road. A few guys passed me and grunted words of encouragement as they ground their way uphill.

View of Bellagio from the Ghisallo climb

If I wasn't feeling great there was an old boy in a worse state than myself. He was breathing so hard I am sure they could hear him in Como.

I was worried he might have been exerting himself too much for his age, especially with the way he was weaving all over the road.

As I overtook him I said the customary "Ciao" while trying not to rub it in that I was having less difficulty than him on the climb. Soon the road levelled off and he as well as I found some respite from our efforts. At that point I looked behind and spotted Bellagio a long way down from where I had come. No wonder I had had to work so hard!

A couple of guys who had passed me earlier on the switchbacks had stopped at the side of the road to take photos. This was the last point that we would see Lake Como until the summit. Then we all tackled the winding road together - well together for 100m, after which I and the old boy were dropped.

It was a beautiful road that passed through woodland with its lovely autumn colours. It made me look forward to the next day when I was due to take part in a running race on trails through this area.

Almost at the summit of the Ghisallo climb

Soon, the road went downhill, passing a village with a pretty chapel and I stopped, erroneously thinking that I had overshot Madonna del Ghisallo.

But when I saw more riders breezing through, and the road going uphill again in the distance I realised I still had a few more kilometres to ride.

Once at the summit I heaved a sigh of relief, and felt satisfied that I had managed the climb, and I had even passed a couple of guys. Maybe I wasn't so unfit then.

The guys I passed reached the summit shortly after me, and we all congratulated each other and took photos. They were Italians from Turin, who had come to Como for the weekend, specially to ride in this area.

It was funny how they were asking me, a Londoner, about the route ahead. They were debating whether to return to Como via Erba, or take the infamous Sormano. When I told them they would be climbing the hard side of Sormano their decision was made. They would carry on straight down to Erba. My decision was made too. I would descend a little, but instead of going to Erba I would turn right and climb to Sormano to take on this Wall.

Meltdown on the Muro

After a look around the chapel with all its cycling memorabilia, and taking more photos of Lake Como I enjoyed the fast decent towards Erba, but half-way down turned sharp right to enjoy more uphill switchbacks to reach the village of Sormano. This climb was gentle, and a breeze compared with the effort to reach Magreglio.

Again, this was a popular Strava segment as lots of cyclists were on the road in both directions. I also saw some riders who I recognised from the Ghisallo climb when they passed me on the way up. If they were only just passing me now, that meant they must have taken an extended café stop at Ghisallo summit, given that they overtook me on the Sormano climb so fast.

Sormano village, where a beast awaits around the corner

On these types of twisty roads, like on any similar roads in scenic areas the world over, you get plenty of motorcyclists, and this road was no exception. There were loads of them on this sunny Saturday afternoon. Thankfully, they kept a healthy distance from me, so it wasn't bothersome.

Once I'd passed Sormano the landscape became more unkempt and desolate as it went through scrubland and then woodland.

Then I saw the sign for the Muro di Sormano, with its vital statistics laid bare on the ground for all to see. 1600m in length, average gradient 17%, maximum gradient 25%, and all the years this climb has been included in the Giro do Lombardia. Taking this narrow steep lane was not compulsory, as it was possible to stay on the main road and continue the longer and less steep way round. But hey, I didn't come all this way to miss it out. I had to at least attempt it.

It was clear that this was going to be tough, and not even the initial downhill at the start of the lane would lure me into a false sense of security.

As walkers in the woods saw me coming down the road they all commented in Italian saying words to the effect of "I hope you're ready for this, you will need very strong legs."

Don't be fooled by the downhill road. It goes to THE WALL

And they were absolutely right. This climb did not disappoint.

The initial section of road shot up just like a wall. Annoyingly, matters were not helped by a motorist who, in her wisdom tried to drive up this road, then on realising it would be too tough to drive, was trying to 3-point turn the car in the lane. Somehow, I managed to squeeze around her.

I heaved and pushed my way up, my heart pounding, quads burning as I honked out of the saddle; it had me gasping for breath. The gradient must have been a good 22%.

It then eased off - only slightly, but enough for me to be able to stay in the saddle and pedal at a snail-pace cadence.

I must have been moving at barely 2 miles an hour. The road continued along this painful slope, and I could see a bend in the road ahead, and hoped that around the corner things would ease off further. I needed some respite as I was pouring with sweat, and every small lump in the road was too much for me. I was right on the limit and thought I would either melt or combust or both!

Alas it wasn't meant to be, and the road continued at its relentless 17% gradient. After about 400m I put a stop to this purgatory on wheels by climbing off my bike and walking. I am just glad that my road cleats were grippy enough to be able to walk, as this road was not even easy to negotiate on foot.

I can't think of a harder climb than this in all the riding I've done in Italy. The hard side of Mortirolo is pretty tough, and I had a similar experience on that one, but that was only for a brief stretch, and to be honest I wasn't that fit. I've heard Zoncolan is difficult too, but I have yet to ride that one. After that, I would compare this climb with the steep climbs in England, like Hardknott Pass in the Lake District, possibly Winnats Pass in the Peak District, but definitely Wrynose Pass going up from Ambleside. The only saving grace about the Muro di Sormano is that being a narrow lane, it is generally traffic free, unlike the comparable climbs in the UK.

Time was marching on as I plodded through this forest, and the sun was beginning to set. As much as I was enjoying the scenery which mixed woodland with rock, it was still disconcerting not knowing when this road was going to finish. I knew I wasn't far from the main road but it was nowhere in sight and there I was all alone.

None of the riders I had seen earlier were on this road. It seems like they had taken the much easier and sensible option of riding the 5km detour along the very gentle climb known as Colma di Sormano. Maybe I should have done the same, but on all previous occasions that I had cycled this way I had opted for the Colma, and for once I just wanted to try the Muro. I made the immediate decision, though, that this would be the last time I ever "ride" along this road!

One other rider as crazy as myself was attempting this challenge too. It was an old boy in civvies and his bike had a dinner plate-sized cassette so he was able to spin up the road for longer than I managed. But even he gave up the ghost two-thirds of the way up. This Muro di Sormano takes no prisoners!

Eventually, I heard the sound of people shouting above, and getting in their cars. What a relief that I was getting back into civilisation! Once at the top of the road I looked back and marvelled at how far the road had climbed over the one mile stretch - even if I had only managed to cycle half of it.


Out of the Woods and Down to the Lake

Given that it was getting late I didn't bother to stop for a coffee. It was just a case of pushing on back to Como. In fact, I didn't have to push at all because from then on it was just one long descent through the Pian del Tivano, and the village of Nesso. Although the ride was effortless, it did require concentration as the switchbacks were very tight and steep. I needed to be mindful of oncoming vehicles as well as the vehicles that I caught up with.

Even though Lake Como was close by, there was no sign of it below, and I was constantly riding through wild remote woodland. At one point I wondered if I was on the right road.

Eventually the descent took me to the junction with the main road and suddenly the lake reappeared. Phew, I was on the home run. It was just a 15km ride back to Como where I celebrated with an ice cream.

Back to the flatlands at Como where an ice cream awaits

It had felt like a long afternoon, but that was more because of my "hillwalking" experience mid-ride.

I would definitely recommend this loop, though it's not necessary to do the hard option that I went for. You don't have to ride the Muro di Sormano. The Colma is pretty doable and it is also very pretty. Other options from Ghisallo are to leave out Sormano and drop straight down towards Erba, then veer off to Ponte Lambro and take a gently undulating road towards Tavernerio, Ponzate, Civiglio, followed by a fast descent into Como.

If you do go for the more testing loop, use a bike that has the biggest dinner-plate gears you can find, otherwise wear shoes that you can walk in!

Check out my route on Strava


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My Tour of Lombardy: Upcycle

Last weekend I spent time in Lombardy, Northern Italy. My base was in Milan, which was handy as my plan had been to go to visit places that were north and south of the city.

You may or may not know, dear reader, that I spent around 18 months in Milan a few years ago. It was when I had a medical copywriting job in an advertising agency over there, so I know the city well. I have fond memories, and left behind some cool friends. So I do like to get back there at least once a year - more if I could.

So this was my trip for 2018. As with the previous trips I've been on it was a fun-packed weekend, and always hard to fit in everything I want to do, and visit all the folks and places I want to see.

A Cinelli hire bike from the nearby Biciclette Rossignoli bike shop

The first thing I did on my arrival, after picking up my hire car, was to set up my bike and take it for a quick spin around the city just to be sure that everything was working okay. I have hired a nice road bike in the past from Biciclette Rossignoli in central Milan. I have also hired from a firm near Como.

Both outfits supply very good quality bikes, though I chose to bring my trusty Boardman because I was not sure what my movements would be and I thought that the shops might be closed on the day that I wanted to return the hire bike. Having said that, I would certainly recommend a renting, particularly if you want to try out a Cinelli or a Pinarello bike which might be nicer than your own road bike!

Being based in Rogoredo was convenient for me because it meant parking was not an issue, and I was close to the ring road (known as the Tangenziale) for when I wanted to leave the city.
However, it meant that my bike ride would just be around fairly ordinary neighbourhoods that didn't go near tourist attractions or anywhere noteworthy. I think that once you're outside the small central zone of the Duomo, Castello Sforzesco, Brera, Colonne San Lorenzo, and the Navigli everything else is pretty drab.

Naviglio Grande - one of the nicer parts of Milan

In fact, if you took a wrong turn you'd end up on a dirt track - apparently a road - called via dei Pestagalli which is quite a depressing sight, with disused industries and condemned buildings. I wouldn't recommend going there after dark!

So my ride was a pretty quick spin through the city limits up to the Naviglio Pavese and then across some creative roadworks just to tickle the Naviglio Grande, before turning back to make it in time to meet Filippo, the landlord of the studio I'd be staying in.

My evening was spent at Upcycle, a bicycle cafe that is basically Milan's answer to Look Mum No Hands! cafe on Old Street, London. Just as I went to the launch night of Look Mum Hands! back in 2010, I went to the opening night of Upcycle in 2013. Upcycle has very much the same feel as Look Mum. They are in similar kinds of areas - a little bit away from the centre of the city, but in up-and-coming hip neighbourhoods.

Upcycle bike cafe, Milan

Both venues frequently hold events about all aspects of cycling, and show major bike events on a big screen. The interiors are decorated with cycling-themed memorabilia, where you can have meals and snacks at rustic-style communal tables. Where Look Mum gives a nod to Belgian beers, Upcycle leans towards Scandinavian food. Look Mum has a bicycle workshop with mechanics, while Upcycle has a large space adjoining the cafe, used for holding events with conference-style audiences.

So Upcycle is where I was on the Thursday night. A book launch took place that evening, and it was quite a big event for the people from Team Cassinis Cycling Team, the club I joined while I lived there. A member of the team, Martin Angioni, had just written a book called 98 Reasons Why I Cycle (Le 98 Ragioni per cui Vado in Bicicletta), so this was his big gig. Mario Cocco, the club president interviewed him on stage, and read excerpts from the book, while making jokes.

Martin Angioni's book which I one day hope to read

I've gotta say I was pretty tired, after only having had a couple of hour's sleep the night before, and being my first day in Italy my Italian was very rusty to say the least! So I think I probably only caught half of what was being said - and that was partly because I did nod off at times.

I'm sure it was very interesting, but my bad - this was not the best day for me to attend a function that was exclusively in Italian! Still, it was a better effort than the last time I was in Milan and was meant to go to Upcycle for an event. On that day I similarly only had a couple of hours' sleep and then went on a long bike ride on my arrival. So when I arrived at my studio I was so tired I fell asleep and completely missed the evening event at Upcycle! [Note to oneself - don't go to bed at 2.30am when you've got a 7am flight!]

On this occasion, it was great to get there and see Barbara Bonori, who had been the women's cycling coordinator when I was in Team Cassinis, and who had organised the book launch, along with the publishers. She also organised a bike ride from the Vigorelli Velodrome up to Madonna del Ghisallo, which was due to take place a week later. Unfortunately I was not going to be in Milan for that.

I also met a woman who is the European Marketing Manager for Cinelli bikes. They are based just outside Milan, and it would have been really nice to see them and check out their bikes. That is something that I will definitely be doing on my next trip.

Then there were other familiar faces that I saw from the days when I rode with Cassinis, and I said a few words to them, including to Roberta and Massimo from Cicli Esposito.

So, although it had been a long day for me, and a testing evening for me, from a stamina point of view for me, it had been a good day and I was very happy to have met the old guys. Hopefully, it won't be too long before I see them again, I can spend more time with them, and my Italian will just roll off the tongue - facilemente!


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