I've got the hill climbs tomorrow. It sounded a great idea at the time when I sent my entry off for the Bec and the Catford CC Hill climbs.
The chance to take part in a challenge with all the South London bike afionados out cheering and shouting you on, like in a Tour de France mountain stage. All the atmosphere and the camaraderie that develops among kindred suffering souls who brave the slopes.
It was also a chance to measure myself up and see how the hill reps, the road racing and the cyclosportives and cyclo cross have helped this year.
I had planned to trained up for this - but now the dreaded bug has hit me and I've been unable to do anything much for the last few days.
Stan and I did a mini ride up Yorks Hill (Catford Hill Climb) and White Lane/Titsey Hill (Bec Hill climb) yesterday. I was convinced that my symptoms were above the neck so no risk to my lungs. I just wrapped myself up with double the amount of layers and had a go at each climb. The lungs were ok but I had nothing in my legs, and I was very out of breath even though I hadn't allow myself to go into the red. But if you're ill there's no point.
After 2 ascents of Yorks Hill and 1 and a half of White Lane at snail-sprint pace we called it day. There was no point in wrecking myself any further. The damage may have already been done, as my chest was hurting during yesterday evening and I was in a real panic thinking I have contracted chronic fatigue syndrome.
Today I don't feel too bad, but then I've only been walking - between living room, kitchen, dining room. I've no idea how my body will bear up tomorrow going over the 25% ramps and the 12.5% average gradients over 600metres. The distances don't sound that long - but you are meant to sprint up them ! The fast boys take around 1min 50. At this rate I am likely to take well over 4 minutes - which will put me in pole position for the Lanterne Rouge! Well at least I'll get £10 for my trouble !
We'll see how it goes.
Blog about a woman cyclist reflecting mostly on cycling in a whole host of forms, including the odd adventure on or off the bike! @2wheelchick
Showing posts with label gradient. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gradient. Show all posts
Saturday, 20 October 2007
Thursday, 20 September 2007
Pyrenean Adventure - Part 5
Massat - Col des Caougnous - Col de Port - Saurat - Tarascon Sur Ariege - Les Cabanes - Ax les Thermes - Ascou - Port de Pailheres - Mijanes - Le Pla - Querigut = 90km
Lodging : Auberge du Donezan les quatre Saisons
I was pleased to have put the hardest climbs of the trip behind me. I woke up feeling fresh and at ease about what the day had in stall for me.

It had become customary for the proprietor of each place we stayed to give us pointers about what to expect that day - the terrain, and where they knew it, the weather. At Le Globe bar and hotel they told us it "should hopefully" stay dry, but be careful around the Querigut area - "ca grimpe bien". So we were warned of the tough climbs ahead - well nothing could be worse than the Portet d'Aspet or Le Marie Blanque so that didn't bother me. As for the weather, we'd been lucky so far - hot sunny days, no rain. But today looked threatening. The dark grey skies gave me a feeling of anxiety at the possiblity of getting soaked - especially if we were on the side of a mountain.
COL DE PORT
After bidding goodbye to the nice folks at The Globe, including the resident "Bard" (aka drunkard) we set off. Once again, our day began with a climb. The col de Port (preceded by the minor col de Caougnous). This col was a real joy to ride up. The gradient was very gentle for the whole of the 12km. It never went above 6%. This was also the only climb of the whole trip that Stan and I actually rode and finished together !
All the way up the sky looked threatening, and the folks along the side of the road warned us we would get very wet very shortly. The rain finally came, at the bottom of the descent (thankfully) just outside Tarascon sur Ariege. It was heavy but not torrential.
We took shelter in a bus shelter for about half an hour, and then decided to continue once the rain became lighter. Tarascon seemed a dour place. It reminded me of St Girons but without all the paper factories and warehouses. We very quickly joined the route towards Ax.

Sadly the route was quite uninspiring - A busy stretch of national road (N20) that was interminably long. We were out of the mountainous area so we didn't even have anything to look at - just fast cars and lorries.
Ax-les-thermes was a very pleasant town. We had lunch next to the spa in the main square. We both stopped and bathed our feet in the warmer while soaking in the sun.

A couple of locals came up and talked bikes with us. They were about to start a Transpyrenean route to Coullioure by mountain bike. They were surprised to see the size of our panniers. "You don't need all that", they said. "Just take loads of washing powder and you'll be fine." I'm not sure when that ever fixed punctures ! Seriously though, they gave us lots of advice about cycling in the area. We had to avoid the national road to Perpignan as much as possible, and for the ride up to Querigut we would need to take all our water with us as there'd be no shops.
PORT DE PAILHERES

The ride up to the Port de Pailheres was long - 10 miles, but the last 3 miles were done through low cloud. As we got further and further near the top the visibility decreased and the temperature dropped. At the top I could only see a couple of metres in front of me - I didn't even know when I had reached the summit ! The descent was wet and cold - colder than anything I'd ever experienced. It was only after 4 miles of descending that the fog lifted. The rain had started again though, and everything looked grey and morose - a stark contrast to the weather on the other side of the mountain.
After half hour of cycling we arrived at the ancient hill-top town of Querigut. Evening consisted of a hearty meal and a walk through the tranquil streets to admire the Pyrenean peaks in the moonlight. It was a great way to contemplate what we'd done, and look forward to arriving at the coast the following day.
DOWN TO THE COAST
Querigut - Carcanieres - Col de Moulis - Col de Garavel - Roquefort de Sault - Col de Jau - Catllar - Marqixanes - Col de Ternere - Bouleternere - Thuir - Elne - St Cyprien - St Cyprien Plage = 120km
Lodging : Hotel du Port

We left the hotel bright and early. The proprietor was from St Cyprien and was excited about the fact that we'd chosen to ride there. She did warn us, with a somewhat grave tone, however of the Tramontane wind we'd have to challenge first.
Our ride was very scenic. The area was desolate. As we were completely off the official Raid Pyrenean route we saw no cyclists and very few vehicles. We really had the road to ourselves. Apparently we went over 3 cols, though I hadn't noticed ! The sky was grey, but as our ride progressed the day brightened up. At the summit of col de Jau we were offered coffee by the English guys. We then made our way down the mountain.
BYE BYE MOUNTAINS !
All I can say was this was the best descent of the whole trip. Lovely sweeping bends, passing through scenic villages and wine producing properties. We did about 20 miles without having to pedal ! The changing architecture indicated we were getting closer to the sea. I was getting excited !

The last part of ride did involve a challenge though. We stayed very briefly on the main N116 to Perpignan. That was a real case of pedal for your life ! We then left the road at Bouleternere to join the quieter D16. There were fewer cars, but it was still extremely winder. When the wind was with us it was great. But many times we had a cross wind which, on a few occassions almost blew me over. That was the Tramontane wind for us !
I was so nervous when riding, and only calmed down when we reached the porch of the Hotel du Port. I was just relieved to get off my bike. We'd made it. We'd done the crossing - and in one piece !
It was late afternoon when we reached St Cyprien. A quick shower and we were immediately out again to celebrate our Transpyrenean ride, and our last night on French soil.
Lodging : Auberge du Donezan les quatre Saisons
I was pleased to have put the hardest climbs of the trip behind me. I woke up feeling fresh and at ease about what the day had in stall for me.

It had become customary for the proprietor of each place we stayed to give us pointers about what to expect that day - the terrain, and where they knew it, the weather. At Le Globe bar and hotel they told us it "should hopefully" stay dry, but be careful around the Querigut area - "ca grimpe bien". So we were warned of the tough climbs ahead - well nothing could be worse than the Portet d'Aspet or Le Marie Blanque so that didn't bother me. As for the weather, we'd been lucky so far - hot sunny days, no rain. But today looked threatening. The dark grey skies gave me a feeling of anxiety at the possiblity of getting soaked - especially if we were on the side of a mountain.
COL DE PORT
After bidding goodbye to the nice folks at The Globe, including the resident "Bard" (aka drunkard) we set off. Once again, our day began with a climb. The col de Port (preceded by the minor col de Caougnous). This col was a real joy to ride up. The gradient was very gentle for the whole of the 12km. It never went above 6%. This was also the only climb of the whole trip that Stan and I actually rode and finished together !
All the way up the sky looked threatening, and the folks along the side of the road warned us we would get very wet very shortly. The rain finally came, at the bottom of the descent (thankfully) just outside Tarascon sur Ariege. It was heavy but not torrential.
We took shelter in a bus shelter for about half an hour, and then decided to continue once the rain became lighter. Tarascon seemed a dour place. It reminded me of St Girons but without all the paper factories and warehouses. We very quickly joined the route towards Ax.
Sadly the route was quite uninspiring - A busy stretch of national road (N20) that was interminably long. We were out of the mountainous area so we didn't even have anything to look at - just fast cars and lorries.
Ax-les-thermes was a very pleasant town. We had lunch next to the spa in the main square. We both stopped and bathed our feet in the warmer while soaking in the sun.
A couple of locals came up and talked bikes with us. They were about to start a Transpyrenean route to Coullioure by mountain bike. They were surprised to see the size of our panniers. "You don't need all that", they said. "Just take loads of washing powder and you'll be fine." I'm not sure when that ever fixed punctures ! Seriously though, they gave us lots of advice about cycling in the area. We had to avoid the national road to Perpignan as much as possible, and for the ride up to Querigut we would need to take all our water with us as there'd be no shops.
PORT DE PAILHERES
The ride up to the Port de Pailheres was long - 10 miles, but the last 3 miles were done through low cloud. As we got further and further near the top the visibility decreased and the temperature dropped. At the top I could only see a couple of metres in front of me - I didn't even know when I had reached the summit ! The descent was wet and cold - colder than anything I'd ever experienced. It was only after 4 miles of descending that the fog lifted. The rain had started again though, and everything looked grey and morose - a stark contrast to the weather on the other side of the mountain.
After half hour of cycling we arrived at the ancient hill-top town of Querigut. Evening consisted of a hearty meal and a walk through the tranquil streets to admire the Pyrenean peaks in the moonlight. It was a great way to contemplate what we'd done, and look forward to arriving at the coast the following day.
DOWN TO THE COAST
Querigut - Carcanieres - Col de Moulis - Col de Garavel - Roquefort de Sault - Col de Jau - Catllar - Marqixanes - Col de Ternere - Bouleternere - Thuir - Elne - St Cyprien - St Cyprien Plage = 120km
Lodging : Hotel du Port

We left the hotel bright and early. The proprietor was from St Cyprien and was excited about the fact that we'd chosen to ride there. She did warn us, with a somewhat grave tone, however of the Tramontane wind we'd have to challenge first.
Our ride was very scenic. The area was desolate. As we were completely off the official Raid Pyrenean route we saw no cyclists and very few vehicles. We really had the road to ourselves. Apparently we went over 3 cols, though I hadn't noticed ! The sky was grey, but as our ride progressed the day brightened up. At the summit of col de Jau we were offered coffee by the English guys. We then made our way down the mountain.
BYE BYE MOUNTAINS !
All I can say was this was the best descent of the whole trip. Lovely sweeping bends, passing through scenic villages and wine producing properties. We did about 20 miles without having to pedal ! The changing architecture indicated we were getting closer to the sea. I was getting excited !
The last part of ride did involve a challenge though. We stayed very briefly on the main N116 to Perpignan. That was a real case of pedal for your life ! We then left the road at Bouleternere to join the quieter D16. There were fewer cars, but it was still extremely winder. When the wind was with us it was great. But many times we had a cross wind which, on a few occassions almost blew me over. That was the Tramontane wind for us !
I was so nervous when riding, and only calmed down when we reached the porch of the Hotel du Port. I was just relieved to get off my bike. We'd made it. We'd done the crossing - and in one piece !
It was late afternoon when we reached St Cyprien. A quick shower and we were immediately out again to celebrate our Transpyrenean ride, and our last night on French soil.
Wednesday, 19 September 2007
Pyrenean Adventure - Part 4
St Beat - Col de Mente - Ger be Boutx - Col de Portet d'Aspet - St Lary - Audressein - St Girons - Lacourt - Buleix - Massat = 100km
Lodging : Hotel Le Globe
RUDE AWAKENING !
I slept really well at L'Abri d'Arlos, but not enough. Breakfast was a really trying affair. Especially as it was happening a good 2 hours too soon. All I wanted was my bed - but I had to be on the bike by 9am, ready to start the climb up the col de Mente, and later ride the steepest climb of the official Raid Pyrenean - col de Portet d'Aspet. I just ate my food in silence, while trying to find in my mind the motivation to ride. The sun was already up and the weather was warming up. Why couldn't we have just stayed at the Centre de Vacances and had a leisurely day.
We hit the road at just after 9am. About a mile down the road we did a right hand turn and were immediately at the foot of the col de Mente.

COL DE MENTE
The first kilometre was quite steep - about 11% - not really want you want when your legs aren't warmed up. My back was still aching from my exertions of the first day of the trip. The climb soon levelled off, and became easier to ride at around 7%. I still wanted to take things easily though. Stan, feeling that he hadn't really been challenged on any of the climbs during the cycling tour, had decided to take some of my load. He was now carrying about 15kg, where I had 9kg to carry. But he was still able to dance up the slopes while I plodded heavily along.
The ride up the col de Mente was pleasant, as it was through a wooded section. The summit was quite picturesque. It formed the crossroads of a few cols - notably the col d'Artigascou.

So many cyclists congregated at the forested picnic site area. As well as a cafe, there were some mini kennels, keeping mountain dogs. They looked like huskies but I think conditions would have been too hot for them.
We also bumped into other cyclists that we had seen on the other cols. One guy that we'd met on the Tourmalet was unfortunately unable to continue his ride up the cols as he had broken his crank. It's not just your body that suffers on these climbs !
Stan and I pressed on down the hill. I was now in better spirits, but still felt a certain anxiety about going up the Portet d'Aspet.

At the bottom of the descent we did a right turn and suddenly we were on the climb. And didn't I know it !
COL DE PORTET D'ASPET
Straight into a 12% gradient. I heaved my way up in the most unelegant way I could find. I really wanted to do all of this without the having the nightmare I'd had on the col de Marie-Blanque. At the first corner I stopped and had a breather - an apt place to stop as it was also the site of the Fabio Casartelli memomorial.
I stopped to get my breath back and also to take a few photos of this beautiful memorial before continuing up to the summit. This climb was very short - just 4km, but it was very steep - Stan got a reading of 21% on a couple of sections. It was a real quad-buster. The only saving grace was that the climb was in the shade. Fortunately I had gotten used to getting out of the saddle on my pannier-laden bike so it wasn't quite as excruciating as riding up the col de Marie-Blanque.

Once at the summit I wanted to celebrate the fact that I'd got the horribly tough climbs out of the way. I celebrated with a cup of Ice Tea. The local riders (who we'd also spotted on the Tourmalet) told us how it had been just 5 degrees celsius the previous week, and there had been light snow ! We'd definitely been lucky.
We then took the descent towards St Girons. The run-in to St Girons was a demoralising road - a head wind that consisted of very warm air, along a straight boring road. At St Girons Stan got his bike checked as his wheel rim was dented. After assurances from the mechanic that he'd been fine, we then made our way to Massat.
WINING AND DINING IN MASSAT
Funnily enough the Londoners we'd met were stayining in the same town as us - just a mile up the road at the Hosterllerie des Trois Seigneurs. We ended up having dinner there as all the restaurants in the village were closed.

The nice lady at Les Trois Seigneurs had opened up her restaurant specially to accommodate us. I was glad she did so as the meal was absolutely delicious. Marie Angela, the proprietor had won various awards for her cuisine, and she took alot of pride in the service she provided us. She was so pleased to have had our company that she gave us a bottle of wine and a jar of honey.
We'd had a great day of a good bike ride, good wine, good company, and for the first time I went to bed without feeling completely KO'd. I was looking forward to the following day.
(pictures by Stan and 2Wheelchick)
Lodging : Hotel Le Globe
RUDE AWAKENING !
I slept really well at L'Abri d'Arlos, but not enough. Breakfast was a really trying affair. Especially as it was happening a good 2 hours too soon. All I wanted was my bed - but I had to be on the bike by 9am, ready to start the climb up the col de Mente, and later ride the steepest climb of the official Raid Pyrenean - col de Portet d'Aspet. I just ate my food in silence, while trying to find in my mind the motivation to ride. The sun was already up and the weather was warming up. Why couldn't we have just stayed at the Centre de Vacances and had a leisurely day.
We hit the road at just after 9am. About a mile down the road we did a right hand turn and were immediately at the foot of the col de Mente.

COL DE MENTE
The first kilometre was quite steep - about 11% - not really want you want when your legs aren't warmed up. My back was still aching from my exertions of the first day of the trip. The climb soon levelled off, and became easier to ride at around 7%. I still wanted to take things easily though. Stan, feeling that he hadn't really been challenged on any of the climbs during the cycling tour, had decided to take some of my load. He was now carrying about 15kg, where I had 9kg to carry. But he was still able to dance up the slopes while I plodded heavily along.
The ride up the col de Mente was pleasant, as it was through a wooded section. The summit was quite picturesque. It formed the crossroads of a few cols - notably the col d'Artigascou.
So many cyclists congregated at the forested picnic site area. As well as a cafe, there were some mini kennels, keeping mountain dogs. They looked like huskies but I think conditions would have been too hot for them.
We also bumped into other cyclists that we had seen on the other cols. One guy that we'd met on the Tourmalet was unfortunately unable to continue his ride up the cols as he had broken his crank. It's not just your body that suffers on these climbs !
Stan and I pressed on down the hill. I was now in better spirits, but still felt a certain anxiety about going up the Portet d'Aspet.
At the bottom of the descent we did a right turn and suddenly we were on the climb. And didn't I know it !
COL DE PORTET D'ASPET
Straight into a 12% gradient. I heaved my way up in the most unelegant way I could find. I really wanted to do all of this without the having the nightmare I'd had on the col de Marie-Blanque. At the first corner I stopped and had a breather - an apt place to stop as it was also the site of the Fabio Casartelli memomorial.
I stopped to get my breath back and also to take a few photos of this beautiful memorial before continuing up to the summit. This climb was very short - just 4km, but it was very steep - Stan got a reading of 21% on a couple of sections. It was a real quad-buster. The only saving grace was that the climb was in the shade. Fortunately I had gotten used to getting out of the saddle on my pannier-laden bike so it wasn't quite as excruciating as riding up the col de Marie-Blanque.
Once at the summit I wanted to celebrate the fact that I'd got the horribly tough climbs out of the way. I celebrated with a cup of Ice Tea. The local riders (who we'd also spotted on the Tourmalet) told us how it had been just 5 degrees celsius the previous week, and there had been light snow ! We'd definitely been lucky.
We then took the descent towards St Girons. The run-in to St Girons was a demoralising road - a head wind that consisted of very warm air, along a straight boring road. At St Girons Stan got his bike checked as his wheel rim was dented. After assurances from the mechanic that he'd been fine, we then made our way to Massat.
WINING AND DINING IN MASSAT
Funnily enough the Londoners we'd met were stayining in the same town as us - just a mile up the road at the Hosterllerie des Trois Seigneurs. We ended up having dinner there as all the restaurants in the village were closed.
The nice lady at Les Trois Seigneurs had opened up her restaurant specially to accommodate us. I was glad she did so as the meal was absolutely delicious. Marie Angela, the proprietor had won various awards for her cuisine, and she took alot of pride in the service she provided us. She was so pleased to have had our company that she gave us a bottle of wine and a jar of honey.
We'd had a great day of a good bike ride, good wine, good company, and for the first time I went to bed without feeling completely KO'd. I was looking forward to the following day.
(pictures by Stan and 2Wheelchick)
Monday, 17 September 2007
Pyrenean Adventure - Part 3
Luz St Sauveur - Tourmalet - La Mongie - Saint Marie de Campan - Col d'Aspin - Arreau - Col de Peyresourde - Bagneres de Luchon - St Beat - Arlos = 120km
Lodging - Hotel L'Abri d'Arlos

The Landlord at the Hotel des Templiers was very keen to warn us of what a challenge we'd set ourselves.
Riding the Tourmalet would be tough enough. But adding in the Peyresourde and the Aspin would be a tall order. He advised us to have a good breakfast.
For me this was going to be a challenge - especially as Stan feared I wouldn't get through the day, and we'd be obliged to again stop early. He even suggested that we defer our arrival in Barcelona. I wasn't having any of that - it would be throwing in the towel before we'd even tried.
The reason why I'd wanted to stop the ride early the previous day was because I'd thought it may be unsafe to descend from the Tourmalet late in the day - it could be dark, it could be rainy and misty too. If I knew I had all day to ride I would be able to do the 3 climbs. Riding with the panniers and with a shortage of low gears would be difficult, but I was determined to get through the itinerary - even if it hurt.
TOURMALET
We set off at 8.15am on a slightly chilly Monday morning. I didn't mind the cold - at least we wouldn't overheat when tackling the climb. The climb up the Tourmalet began immediately. The average gradient of the whole climb would be 7% - not too challenging, but obviously some parts would be significantly steeper. I was going to take it verrry eeaasy !

The climb up the Tourmalet was very straight forward. Climbing it first thing in the morning was definitely a good idea. Within a short time the sun came out and the views of the mountain peaks in the sunshine were beautiful. Being a working day there weren't as many cyclists around as at the weekend. There were even fewer cars. We practically had the road to ourselves. Half way up the climb I had to slow down while a shepherd crossed the road with his herd. This was a recurring theme in the Pyrenees - passing through extensive stretches where animals roamed freely. It wasn't just cattle - there were horses and ponies too.
The last couple of kilometres of the climb were quite challenging, with 9 and 10% gradients to negotiate. I was really pleased to have crested the Tourmalet comformatbly. I had even ridden up without removing my arm and knee warmers !

At the summit there was a real club run atmosphere, as many cyclists, including those who had ridden up from the opposite side congregated at the cafe in the sunshine, or took photographs next to the Octave Lapize monument. It was good to chat to other cyclists about their itineraries or how long they'd taken to ride up. One guy who had just ridden up from Luz St Sauveur was going to go down towards La Mongie and then climb up Tourmalet again ! A masochist ! I realised that most of the vehicles that had passed us on the climb were actually support cars for the riders. Stan and I were definitely doing things the more adventurous way ! Or maybe some thought we were the masochists !

COL D'ASPIN
After a half hour cafe stop we pressed on with our descent, through La Mongie, Sainte Marie de Campan, and then up the col d'Aspin. This climb was quite easy - it was only about 5 miles long, and wasn't particularly steep. It was the anti-dote to the big climbs we'd done in the previous 48 hours.

We had lunch at the bottom of the col d'Aspin, in Arreau. A pleasant but sleepy town. There we ate the most delicious pizza I've ever had (outside of Italy). The owner had only recently taken over the pizza parlour, after having spent a life-time working as Head of Facilities at various blue-chip companies in Paris. He'd done a course in italian cuisine, and was putting it all into practice. I'd definitely recommend this place for a cafe/lunch stop.
COL DE PEYRESOURDE
After a good re-stock of energy, we then set about bagging the last challenge of the day - the Peyresourde. I was feeling good, but knew I had to take things easy. We were in for around 10mile of climbing. I don't think the climb up the col du Peyresourde was particularly difficult. But the fact that it was over 30 degrees celsius made things very challenging. The afternoon heat was taking its toll on me, and I ended up stopping and sitting in the shade. Funnily enough I thought I should've coped better in the heat than Stan - he just seemed to plough on up the hill unaffected. Luckily there was a quaint cafe/honey making shop at the top, where he sat and watched the world go by while I watched sweat dripping off the end of my nose !

Once at the top I savoured a well deserved coke and ice cream. We joined a group of guys from London. We'd bumped into them on every col that day, and we would continue to bump into them, as we were following similar routes. The were doing the trip with a full back-up, complete with their own food supplies and cooking facilities ! They'd opted for the luxury package !
THE HOME STRAIT
All we need to do now was just get down the Peyresourde to Bagneres de Luchon and then do a 10mile run in to St Beat. It was a lovely descent - 6 miles and no need to pedal. After Luchon we the road was slightly downhill too. It was great. St Beat seemed a bit grey and dreary. I was glad I hadn't reserved a place in the centre of the town. We stayed in a Centre de Vacances place at Arlos, a couple of km on from St Beat and less than 10 miles from the Spanish border. It had a homely feel to it as there were mainly families on holiday there. We ate in the garden while watching children playing, and others having an evening barbecue. It was really idyllic tucking into a hearty meal and sipping wine in the moonlight, under the protection of the mountains.
The day's exertions had taken their toll on me, as I struggled to lift my arms just to eat my food ! I was ready to slump over the table and go to sleep immediately. But deep down I felt happy that I had lived up to the challenge. This also meant we were back on course with our plans.
Lodging - Hotel L'Abri d'Arlos

The Landlord at the Hotel des Templiers was very keen to warn us of what a challenge we'd set ourselves.
Riding the Tourmalet would be tough enough. But adding in the Peyresourde and the Aspin would be a tall order. He advised us to have a good breakfast.
For me this was going to be a challenge - especially as Stan feared I wouldn't get through the day, and we'd be obliged to again stop early. He even suggested that we defer our arrival in Barcelona. I wasn't having any of that - it would be throwing in the towel before we'd even tried.
The reason why I'd wanted to stop the ride early the previous day was because I'd thought it may be unsafe to descend from the Tourmalet late in the day - it could be dark, it could be rainy and misty too. If I knew I had all day to ride I would be able to do the 3 climbs. Riding with the panniers and with a shortage of low gears would be difficult, but I was determined to get through the itinerary - even if it hurt.
TOURMALET
We set off at 8.15am on a slightly chilly Monday morning. I didn't mind the cold - at least we wouldn't overheat when tackling the climb. The climb up the Tourmalet began immediately. The average gradient of the whole climb would be 7% - not too challenging, but obviously some parts would be significantly steeper. I was going to take it verrry eeaasy !

The climb up the Tourmalet was very straight forward. Climbing it first thing in the morning was definitely a good idea. Within a short time the sun came out and the views of the mountain peaks in the sunshine were beautiful. Being a working day there weren't as many cyclists around as at the weekend. There were even fewer cars. We practically had the road to ourselves. Half way up the climb I had to slow down while a shepherd crossed the road with his herd. This was a recurring theme in the Pyrenees - passing through extensive stretches where animals roamed freely. It wasn't just cattle - there were horses and ponies too.
The last couple of kilometres of the climb were quite challenging, with 9 and 10% gradients to negotiate. I was really pleased to have crested the Tourmalet comformatbly. I had even ridden up without removing my arm and knee warmers !
At the summit there was a real club run atmosphere, as many cyclists, including those who had ridden up from the opposite side congregated at the cafe in the sunshine, or took photographs next to the Octave Lapize monument. It was good to chat to other cyclists about their itineraries or how long they'd taken to ride up. One guy who had just ridden up from Luz St Sauveur was going to go down towards La Mongie and then climb up Tourmalet again ! A masochist ! I realised that most of the vehicles that had passed us on the climb were actually support cars for the riders. Stan and I were definitely doing things the more adventurous way ! Or maybe some thought we were the masochists !
COL D'ASPIN
After a half hour cafe stop we pressed on with our descent, through La Mongie, Sainte Marie de Campan, and then up the col d'Aspin. This climb was quite easy - it was only about 5 miles long, and wasn't particularly steep. It was the anti-dote to the big climbs we'd done in the previous 48 hours.

We had lunch at the bottom of the col d'Aspin, in Arreau. A pleasant but sleepy town. There we ate the most delicious pizza I've ever had (outside of Italy). The owner had only recently taken over the pizza parlour, after having spent a life-time working as Head of Facilities at various blue-chip companies in Paris. He'd done a course in italian cuisine, and was putting it all into practice. I'd definitely recommend this place for a cafe/lunch stop.
COL DE PEYRESOURDE
After a good re-stock of energy, we then set about bagging the last challenge of the day - the Peyresourde. I was feeling good, but knew I had to take things easy. We were in for around 10mile of climbing. I don't think the climb up the col du Peyresourde was particularly difficult. But the fact that it was over 30 degrees celsius made things very challenging. The afternoon heat was taking its toll on me, and I ended up stopping and sitting in the shade. Funnily enough I thought I should've coped better in the heat than Stan - he just seemed to plough on up the hill unaffected. Luckily there was a quaint cafe/honey making shop at the top, where he sat and watched the world go by while I watched sweat dripping off the end of my nose !
Once at the top I savoured a well deserved coke and ice cream. We joined a group of guys from London. We'd bumped into them on every col that day, and we would continue to bump into them, as we were following similar routes. The were doing the trip with a full back-up, complete with their own food supplies and cooking facilities ! They'd opted for the luxury package !
THE HOME STRAIT
All we need to do now was just get down the Peyresourde to Bagneres de Luchon and then do a 10mile run in to St Beat. It was a lovely descent - 6 miles and no need to pedal. After Luchon we the road was slightly downhill too. It was great. St Beat seemed a bit grey and dreary. I was glad I hadn't reserved a place in the centre of the town. We stayed in a Centre de Vacances place at Arlos, a couple of km on from St Beat and less than 10 miles from the Spanish border. It had a homely feel to it as there were mainly families on holiday there. We ate in the garden while watching children playing, and others having an evening barbecue. It was really idyllic tucking into a hearty meal and sipping wine in the moonlight, under the protection of the mountains.
The day's exertions had taken their toll on me, as I struggled to lift my arms just to eat my food ! I was ready to slump over the table and go to sleep immediately. But deep down I felt happy that I had lived up to the challenge. This also meant we were back on course with our plans.
Pyrenean Adventure - Part 2
Laruns - Col d'Aubisque - Col de Soulour - Argeles Gazost - Luz St Sauveur = 75km
Lodging : Hotel des Templiers

This was our first full day in the Pyrenees. A heavy work-load and getting up for an early flight meant we had only been getting a couple of hours' sleep in the days leading up to our departure for South West France.
Although we managed a few more hours' sleep on the first night of the trip, any hope of having a lie-in was dashed when we were rudely awakened. At 7am sharp a loud pa system was turned on.
Apparently a big event was taking place that morning. The annual Montee de l'Aubisque - an 16km running race from Laruns to the summit of the col d'Aubisque. About 700 runners and competitive walkers were assembled below our hotel window, warming up for the start of the race ! And the compere was giving it his all to gee up the folks ahead of this famous local event, complete with motivational music etc.
We realised we had no choice but to get up - especially when the canon went off at 7.45 to signal the start of the first wave of the race. Furthermore, we would not be able to set off early as the road would be closed during the event. This led us to take a leisurely breakfast before leaving.
I think we took things a little too leisurely (mainly due to my dawdling)so we didn't get going until almost 11am.
By this time the weather was pretty hot. I had backache from having tackled the previous day's back-breaking/quad-busting gradient in the saddle.
The hotel folks reassured us that since we'd crested col de Marie-Blanque via the hard side, nothing we were about to do would be any worse than that. I suppose that's the advantage of starting the tour with the toughest gradient !
COL D'AUBISQUE
The ride up the col d'Aubisque would be long and hot - thankfully the gradient wouldn't be too stiff - starting off at 5%, then rising up to 10-11% in the middle, before levelling off near the top. I decided to take it easy. I was feeling the strain of having 9kg of panniers and a ruck-sack to carry. It felt worse when we were passed by lots of local club riders on their Sunday run round the lanes ! I tried as much as possible to keep in the shade. This was possible as far as Eaux Bonnes, but afterwards I was faced with the full exposure of the midday sun.
Eaux Bonnes was a pretty village, however what I remember most about it was how the gradient went up to about 12% through the town, and we had to tackle this on a one way system !
I stopped a couple of times on the way up - notably at the ski station of Gourette. The views from there were spectacular, however I was too conscious of the need to drink more, and get the salt out of my eyes !

Stan, with his low mountain bike gears was able to take it at a more relaxed pace, while I waddled along. The road was quite busy at times - mainly due to the series of coaches that were transferring runners back down to Laruns after the running race. We also saw a number of people who had chosen to run down to Laruns after their race. We greeted each other, while probably wondering which one of the parties was madder !
Finally I reached the summit, to be greeted by many cyclists and picnic-ers who congratulated us on our feat - having made it to the top while carrying our loads. I'm sure the views were even more spectacular at the summit, but at that particular moment I just wanted to sit down among the cattle and rest, while wolfing down any food that came in sight.
There was a good ambiance at the summit, with lots of people milling around, a couple of cafes and sweet shops - plus the big steel statues of bicycles in the Tour de France jersey colours - I'd seen these in various photos and during the TdF coverage. It was impressive to actually see them for real.
The sun was definitely shining here too, as our man at Pau airport had rightly predicted.

After a break we then continued on - a short descent, followed by a climb up the col de Soulour. This was hardly noticeable - just 2km at about 3%. We then paused very briefly for another photo opportunity before continuing the long descent towards Argeles-Gazost.
CHANGE OF PLAN
It was only on reaching here that I realised how much time we'd wasted. It was mid afternoon, and we were supposed to have been going over to Sainte Marie de Campan that day - only 30miles away, but it would involve the small matter of an 18km climb up Tourmalet. We also needed to re-stock on food supplies - not so straightforward on a Sunday.
After a bit of a discussion, with Stan fearing that we would fall behind on our schedule and me trying to reassure him otherwise, we decided we would just head on as far as the foot of the Tourmalet and end our ride there.
As we had more leisure time on our hands, we made the most of the pleasant bar in the main square of Argeles Gazost and sampled the local brew. Other customers nearby were quite intrigued to hear about our adventure. The said it was tiring enough doing these roads by car ! One thing I did note was the fact that we'd been lucky weatherwise. Many holidaymakers said they were making the most of the weekend after having had a week of wall to wall rain. So it wasn't just London that had had a lousy summer.

At the end of the afternoon we then made the 10mile trip over to Luz St Sauveur. This was quite a buzzing town, with lots of activity going on. We easily found ourselves a hotel in a quiet square.
We knew it was going to be an early night for us though, as we would have to do Tourmalet plus the other scheduled classic cols. We had a long day in stall.
Lodging : Hotel des Templiers

This was our first full day in the Pyrenees. A heavy work-load and getting up for an early flight meant we had only been getting a couple of hours' sleep in the days leading up to our departure for South West France.
Although we managed a few more hours' sleep on the first night of the trip, any hope of having a lie-in was dashed when we were rudely awakened. At 7am sharp a loud pa system was turned on.
Apparently a big event was taking place that morning. The annual Montee de l'Aubisque - an 16km running race from Laruns to the summit of the col d'Aubisque. About 700 runners and competitive walkers were assembled below our hotel window, warming up for the start of the race ! And the compere was giving it his all to gee up the folks ahead of this famous local event, complete with motivational music etc.
We realised we had no choice but to get up - especially when the canon went off at 7.45 to signal the start of the first wave of the race. Furthermore, we would not be able to set off early as the road would be closed during the event. This led us to take a leisurely breakfast before leaving.
I think we took things a little too leisurely (mainly due to my dawdling)so we didn't get going until almost 11am.
By this time the weather was pretty hot. I had backache from having tackled the previous day's back-breaking/quad-busting gradient in the saddle.
The hotel folks reassured us that since we'd crested col de Marie-Blanque via the hard side, nothing we were about to do would be any worse than that. I suppose that's the advantage of starting the tour with the toughest gradient !
COL D'AUBISQUE
The ride up the col d'Aubisque would be long and hot - thankfully the gradient wouldn't be too stiff - starting off at 5%, then rising up to 10-11% in the middle, before levelling off near the top. I decided to take it easy. I was feeling the strain of having 9kg of panniers and a ruck-sack to carry. It felt worse when we were passed by lots of local club riders on their Sunday run round the lanes ! I tried as much as possible to keep in the shade. This was possible as far as Eaux Bonnes, but afterwards I was faced with the full exposure of the midday sun.
Eaux Bonnes was a pretty village, however what I remember most about it was how the gradient went up to about 12% through the town, and we had to tackle this on a one way system !
I stopped a couple of times on the way up - notably at the ski station of Gourette. The views from there were spectacular, however I was too conscious of the need to drink more, and get the salt out of my eyes !

Stan, with his low mountain bike gears was able to take it at a more relaxed pace, while I waddled along. The road was quite busy at times - mainly due to the series of coaches that were transferring runners back down to Laruns after the running race. We also saw a number of people who had chosen to run down to Laruns after their race. We greeted each other, while probably wondering which one of the parties was madder !
Finally I reached the summit, to be greeted by many cyclists and picnic-ers who congratulated us on our feat - having made it to the top while carrying our loads. I'm sure the views were even more spectacular at the summit, but at that particular moment I just wanted to sit down among the cattle and rest, while wolfing down any food that came in sight.
There was a good ambiance at the summit, with lots of people milling around, a couple of cafes and sweet shops - plus the big steel statues of bicycles in the Tour de France jersey colours - I'd seen these in various photos and during the TdF coverage. It was impressive to actually see them for real.
The sun was definitely shining here too, as our man at Pau airport had rightly predicted.

After a break we then continued on - a short descent, followed by a climb up the col de Soulour. This was hardly noticeable - just 2km at about 3%. We then paused very briefly for another photo opportunity before continuing the long descent towards Argeles-Gazost.
CHANGE OF PLAN
It was only on reaching here that I realised how much time we'd wasted. It was mid afternoon, and we were supposed to have been going over to Sainte Marie de Campan that day - only 30miles away, but it would involve the small matter of an 18km climb up Tourmalet. We also needed to re-stock on food supplies - not so straightforward on a Sunday.
After a bit of a discussion, with Stan fearing that we would fall behind on our schedule and me trying to reassure him otherwise, we decided we would just head on as far as the foot of the Tourmalet and end our ride there.
As we had more leisure time on our hands, we made the most of the pleasant bar in the main square of Argeles Gazost and sampled the local brew. Other customers nearby were quite intrigued to hear about our adventure. The said it was tiring enough doing these roads by car ! One thing I did note was the fact that we'd been lucky weatherwise. Many holidaymakers said they were making the most of the weekend after having had a week of wall to wall rain. So it wasn't just London that had had a lousy summer.

At the end of the afternoon we then made the 10mile trip over to Luz St Sauveur. This was quite a buzzing town, with lots of activity going on. We easily found ourselves a hotel in a quiet square.
We knew it was going to be an early night for us though, as we would have to do Tourmalet plus the other scheduled classic cols. We had a long day in stall.
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